Friday, November 18, 2011

My Seiko 6309-7040 Story

It was about 3 years ago, just the usual day scrolling around the web for more information about a new found passion: watches of course.  And since I only had one Seiko back then, I was completely blown away by how many collectors of Seiko there are and the different styles and lines that Seiko has that people collect.  And it was in one image I forgot what forum it was that the owner showed a wrist shot of specific Seiko Diver to which I have never seen before.  Well from the watch stores at least.  It was the first time I saw it.  The image had some title on the bottom, its reference number and possibly the date of the watch, It s 6309-7040 and year 1976 respectively.  Since that day on, that that specific reference number has somewhat implanted in my WIS brain and has never left since.

What is it about the 6309?  For one, I think it has a lot to do with the cushioned case.  Well the 6105 also had a cushioned case but IMO it was too wide for my taste as it pairs its 19mm lugs.  The 6309's are just perfect and just right.  It's like that perfect curve of a woman on the ratio of the chest to waist to hip, like those on Jessica Alba or Olivia Wilde, and not the Lorno type that you see from the Kardashians (I can't believe I just made reference to a woman's body to watch, what is happening to me!).  Well you know what I mean.

The crown on the 6309 neatly tucks in the cushioned case  without needing extra metal for crown guards, the cushion does the cushioning itself. And since it is a tube type crown, unlike the later versions of the Seiko Divers wear it kinda sits on the stem and quite hard to screw in if you done get the grooves aligned right.  On the 6309, its such a breeze.  The tube under the crown guides your fingers all the way to those nice curvy hips I mean case.  

I also like the look better with round/circular indices (submariner influence on me maybe).  But they really strike artful balance to a circular dial rather than rectangular indices.  And the special 12, 9 and 6 o'clock markers are right on the spot, especially the sword shaped marker on the 12 o'clock, ugh I could stare on them forever.

The 6309/6306 (hacking version type) was also the first Seiko Diver model to have this set of arrow type hands, to which is used in a lot of Seiko Divers and Sports models up to this day.  

And, some say the 6309 movement is also a bullet, well can't attest to this for now but I think all Seiko movements are :)

Now going back to my story.  So it really didn't come to my plan to get one.  I mean,  during that moment, it never crossed my mind to get a vintage watch.  But as soon as had some sources for one, I tried to check it out.

I met up with the seller to check the 6309 he was selling.  The initial information he told me that he had a good condition 6309 that was ready to wear and did not need any refurbish or repair.  Upon seeing the watch, I was like "whoah finally a 6309 in my hands" you know kinda star struck.  But it kinda quickly went away when I noticed that the dial was too new for a 20 plus year old watch.  Yes it was aftermarket.  and So was the bezel insert and the hands.  The rubber strap was also aftermarket, and you guessed it, so was the spring bar, was thin as hell.  It was then I realized that I was kind of a purist.


I also requested the seller to open up the case-back to check if it really had an authentic movement. It did though, but it did not look good.  The rotor had brown colored stains on it, may be some dirty pitt but could not be rust I thought.

Here is a quick wrist shot (blurry shot sorry) of the watch (with all the aftermarket parts) when I got it.






So, with all this at hand, I decided to get the watch since the movement was original, the case and caseback was still in good condition, a little WABI but as expected on a vintage watcg. Then I set-out to restore it with orignal parts as possible or where feasible.

For the dial, I requested the seller if he could acquire some old original 6309 dials so I could switch it with the aftermaket.  So does with the Bezel insert. I wouldn't care if there were some WABI in it just as long as it was original or a correct aftermarket. And luckily just after a few days, he contacted me and got me a original non-suwa dial with some patina and dirt on the lume and a correct aftermarket bezel insert with minor WABI all over.

Here is the comparison of the original dial and the aftermarket.

Aftermarket Dial - Seiko Logo.  Observe the print on the hour indices and Seiko logo is kinda blotchy and thick.
 

Original Dial with some patina, WABI - Seiko Logo.  Observe how the prints on the hour indices and the Seiko Logo is finely printed.



Aftermarket dial with 150m water resist print.  The 150m print is still blotchy but the Water Resist print is rather fine in my opinion.



Then the 150m water resist print on the original dial.  The Water Resist print has faded to pale yellow but the 150m  is clearly in fine print.  This is what they call a Non-Suwa dial as clearly there is no Suwa Logo right below the WATER 150M RESIST print.




At the bottom of the dial, bears some writing and references to where it was made.
This is the aftermarket dial and it's writing below.  Print still blotchy and not quite clear. the "9" on the 6309 print is even incomplete.

And here is the print on the original dial. Also finely printed and clear after all this years under the sun.  From the reference on"6309 Collector's Buying Guide" on watchuseek forum, this dial was made in Singapore.



And the comparison for the bezel insert.

Aftermarket wrong bezel insert.  Lume pip sits on top of the insert and the capped "1" on the 10 marker.

And the correct bezel insert.  Lume pip is embedded on the insert and the correct "1" font on the 10.  The dots that make up the minute markers also are bigger in size.




Extensive references where from this link, you'll find this very useful as it did to mine.
http://forums.watchuseek.com/f281/how-buy-seiko-6309-diver-collectors-buying-guide-140799.html

 
Here is the watch head now with orginal dial with patina. The hands are still aftermarket, as original ones in good clean condition are rare to find as with the bezel but as long as it's the correct one.



Then I sent it out to Seiko Service Center for a full movement overhaul and for it to be regulated.  Prior sending it for repair, it was running +2 mins per day and sometimes would stop running even though I was wearing it. 

Initial check-up from the watch technician indicated that the balance wheel and plate need to be replaced.  So with the gaskets.

I waited for almost a month before the watch finished it's service. I then requested the watch technician to open up the case back so I could take a cell phone quick shot of the movement.

Here is the pic of the movement, all cleaned up and ready to run.



Here the pics of the old plate.  Notice the grime on the rotor ball rollers.  Figured this caused the inefficient winding.




And the old balance wheel. Can't really say what's wrong with it but might be the performance that needed it to be changed.

It now runs +15-20 secs per day.  Not a chronometer spec but I believe within tolerance to the specs of this movement.  I plan to get it back to Seiko to be regulated again as I do believe this can still be improved.

I then strapped it up with some Seiko fat spring bars and a Maratac Zulu Strap, and now here it is, ready for more years of ticking.




Some photo sessions with an old book by Hemingway...











And some pictures with its successors...a 7002-700A Pepsi Diver, and the SKX007.  If you look at it closely, the aftermarket second hand on the 6309 has a longer tip after the circular lume marker compared to the original second hand on the 7002.  As for the bezel insert, the aftermarket one on the 6309 doesn't create a shadow at the edges of the lume pip, while the original inserts on the 7002 and SKX have deeper lume pips which create an inner shadow. 




The Seiko 6309-7040, trusted and loved by so many.  A basic divers watch that has truly become an icon in Japanese Horology, capturing the wrists of many WIS from any continent in the world.  27 years has passed since mine got off the production floor, I did not cause its scars, I did not wear its gears, but I believe I have given life back to this watch and gave it all needed attention and care that I hope it could live again for another 27 years...or more.




WWR #15: Ball Engineer Master II Aviator 46mm

I came across Ball in one of their magazine ads showing some free diver breaking a record dive.  Then I saw another one with the Wright Brothers then another feature for another astronaut.  Aside from that, I knew Ball as one of the first watches who used titrium gas lights for illumination rather than the usual luminous paint.  Most stores I visit who sell Ball watches have this display where the watches displayed have their lights dimmed so that people can see the gas lights working.  First impression would be that their brands would cost an arm or leg, but no. I mean for it's basic features, you can't get better value than that.

My Weekly Watch Recommendation #15 is the Ball Engineer Master II Aviator 46mm.  Model number is NM1080C-L1-BK.  What I like about this watch is that it got the classic edges and hues of an aviator watch but added some design in dial, hands and indices that would make it a Ball Watch.  It is powered by an ETA 2836-2 movement that is protected from shocks of up to 5,000 Gs, magnetism to up to 4,800 a/m, water resistance to up to 100m by a wide 46mm stainless steel case.  The hands and hour indices are all applied with self-powered micro gas lights that they say light up 100 times brighter than luminous paint for 25 years.  You won't expect some patina like a rollie on this after the lights go down but hey, 100 times, thats more than a justification.  And the next best thing is that the watch retails around $1,600.  I bet if these were stamped with other Brands, the prices would sky rocket a couple of times over.

Ball also has another smaller version of the watch at 44m, for those who like to keep it down low or with smaller wrists.













Monday, November 7, 2011

WWR #14: Mondaine Sports Gents Chronograph Watch

It's quite a trend now that the market is into more simple and minimalistic design in watches.  And so I started last week with one of these type of watches with the Nomos Tangomat, for this week, I'd love to share with you another simplistic round shaped case watch that's nothing too fancy or overstated, but a simple white faced dial adorned by the rectangular hands and the signature red seconds hand from Mondaine
The WWR# 13 is the Sports Gents Chronograph with model number A690.30308.11SBB.  It is powered by a the dependable Swiss Ronda Quartz movement and housed in a stainless steel 41mm case.  Aside from the dial design that is similar to the Swiss Railway Clocks, is the large date display over at the 12 o'clock position at the dial.  And what I like most about this date function is its two window digit display style.  Surely not what you usually nowadays with date windows and while trying it on and operating the date function, it's interesting to see how it flips to the next day without the need for the first window to change for days within the 10 digit period.  The Chronograph function is also very smooth, the buttons work fine and the shiny case reflects also what is on the chapter ring on the dial thus mirroring the minute indices in a swindling image on the sides.  You'll notice it once you try to handle one in person.  The leather strap is on the medium scale of design, simple white stitches on the side.  The watch wears a little smaller in person vs its spec of 41mm so it should fit any shirt or cuff comfortably.  The price for this Modaine is around $600 as i've seen on retail store tags.  If you want just a simple daily watch for your everyday job and weekend getaways, perhaps this is the watch for you.  Dependable, Swiss, Simple, Elegant and Fashionable...Set it and enjoy it.

Saturday, October 22, 2011

WWR #13: Nomos Tangomat GMT

From a little town in Glashutte, comes my WWR no. 12.  which is the Nomos Glashutte Tangomat GMT.  Now one of the things that prompted me to choose this brand is that now in our world of complexities and somewhat chaos, a site of simplicity for me is beauty.  And that characteristic is visibly clear in all Nomos watches.  I chose the Tangomat GMT is that i breaks a way from the normal three handed watch and comes away with the GMT function through a window calendar and its one of the bigger models that Nomos has which is at 40mm.  The white dial face is also a sure damn killer.  You can pair it with Jeans, or casual long sleeve shirts and jackets, or a tie, fits everywhere. Those blue hands complement the dial so much adding to it the small seconds that really makes everything fit and clear. 



The backdrop of this model though is since the GMT function is done through similar to a calendar day ring, the date function is sacrificed.  Well whatever works for you, there is a Tangomat Datum that has no GMT function but a large date display on the dial.   



This clean minimalist watch is not screaming for attention but gains a lot of respect to where it is due.  Just look at the back.  Seldom do you see in-house manufactured watches these days.






Saturday, October 1, 2011

WWR #12: Halios Laguna 500M Watch

I saw a prototype of this model months back from another dive watch website and it instantly captured my WIS senses.  It's design that is perfectly simple and yet unique is what attracted me to it. It kinda reminds me of a BMW M3, sedan on the outside, outstanding sports car in the inside.  The Halios Laguna looks like an ordinary 3 handed watch from the front, but surprise you, this thick and big watch under that simple dial can go 500M. 


What i love about it?
- Big and thick casind, 43mm and 14.5mm respectively
- 4mm thick sapphire crystal
- Simple dial design with inner rotating reflector, doing away with the usual divers external bezel
- Excellent lume
- Screw down crown design (watch it from the video review)
- Case design is unique
- WR500M, and doesn't look like one
- And the price at $670



Specifications from Halios Website:

  • Comfortable, modern size: 43mm width, 49mm lug-to-lug, 14.5mm thickness
  • Highly scratch-resistant 4mm sapphire crystal
  • Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic movement
  • Internal rotating bezel operated by non-screwdown, bi-directional crown at 2 o’clock
  • 500M water-resistance
  • C3 Superluminova-coated hands, dial and bezel markers for optimal low-light visibility
  • Ships with: HALIOS bracelet, genuine Isofrane® 1968 rubber strap and tools

    All in all, this is really a value for your money.  And you are sure this ain't any next door Rolex or Timex that you  would see from your neighbor's wrist.  Something you can uniquely call your own Laguna.


Here's an excellent review by James Stacey from WatchReport.com.



That's all for this week.  Hail to Halios for this impressive watch!

How to Make it in America: Season 2



They said that How to Make it in America will replace Entourage in the HBO tv offerings to bring about another version of bromance or a show for guys and their adventures in this world.  Well, seeing season 1 of HTMIIA, I instantly loved it.  But it wasn't the next Entourage.  It was entirely different on it's own.  Entourage brought about the dream life of guys, you know, girls, girls girls, hollywood, living with your bros, cars, suits, bucks minimum of 5 digits, not to mention lots of cameos, and Sasha Grey, Alice Eve, Emmanuelle Chriqui and countles hot women. HTMIIA was about the real world, the struggles, adventures and success in views of two friends who dream to make it big in New York.  Yup, what place but New York, the center of all life on earth!  And now, Season 2 starts airing tonight, and they promise a bigger load from season 1, sex, drugs and money.  Surely got my juices pumped up, right in time after the finale of my well loved Entourage.  Keep it coming HBO!

 




Saturday, September 24, 2011

WWR# 11 - Casio Edifice Red Bull Limited Edition Watch



F1 fan you are?  Well look no further.  F1 has it's youngest champion yet, and the most advanced F1 watch yet.  The Casio Edifice Red Bull Racing Limited Edition watch EQS-A1000RB is the Weekly Watch Recom for this week. 



This watch is really the cream of the crop for quartz lovers.  Seeing the specs below, I bet you won't even use 50% for regular folks like us but the marvel of engineering to fit all those in analog watch  is pure advanced and innovative electronics and mechanisms.  I mean I seldom see these features on a high-end Master of G, G-shock watches, but no, its on a Casio Edifice with only hour, minute and second hands.  The mystery of how it works and how it all fits in this simple watch is what makes this very interesting.  Plus, this has the tough solar technology, similar to Seiko Solar and of course the popular Eco-Drive from Citizen.  This is probably the priciest Casio yet at around $700, but I bet all my collection that this is the most high-tech, full featured, most accurate watch of all F1 branded watches.  Especially that majority of which are mechanicals, really, though I am in love with mechanical watches, do you really think that F1 teams use a mechanical watch to capture lap times up to the most milliseconds? Not a chance.  If the price is too steep for you, there are a lot of Edifice models to choose from sans the Red Bull Logo. 


Specs from Casio:
  • Case / bezel material: Stainless steel / Aluminum
  • Stainless Steel Band
  • One-touch 3-fold Buckle
  • Solid Band
  • 100-meter water resistance
  • Mineral Glass
  • Neobrite
  • Screw Lock Crown
  • Partial ion plated
  • Solar powered
  • World time
    29 time zones (29 cities + coordinated universal time), daylight saving on/off
  • 1/20-second stopwatch
    Measuring capacity: 59'59.95''
    Measuring modes: Elapsed time, split time, 1st-2nd place times
  • 1/20-second stopwatch
    Measuring capacity: 59'59.95''
    Measuring modes: Elapsed time, lap time
    Memory capacity: Up to 5 records
    Other: Fastest lap
  • Countdown timer
    Measuring unit: 1 second
    Input range: 1 minute to 60 minutes (1-minute increments)
    Other: Auto switching to elapsed time measurement (1-second units) when the end of a countdown timer operation is reached
  • Daily alarm
  • Low battery alert
  • Power Saving (hands stop to save power when the watch is left in the dark)
  • Full auto-calendar (to year 2099)
  • Date display
  • Regular timekeeping
    Analog: 3 hands (hour, minute (hand moves every 10 seconds), second), 1 dial (TM (mode))
  • Accuracy: ±15 seconds per month
  • Approx. battery operating time:
    6 months on rechargeable battery (operation period with normal use without exposure to light after full charge)
    31 months on rechargeable battery (operation period when stored in total darkness with the power save function on after full charge)
  • Size of case/total weight: 51.6 X 46.2 X 14.3 mm/193 g
Here is a quote from the Champion himself:


"Let me share a secret with you: to win in Formula One, you need to be ready for new challenges all the time. Whether you’re a driver, designer or engineer, the commitment is the same. You only need to look at casio edifice watches to understand that they have a similar philosophy"
Sebastian Vettel

Saturday, September 17, 2011

WWR# 10: Rolex Sea Dweller



I recently just decided that for every 10th post at Weekly Watch Recom, I will be choosing either high end or haute horology watches or "Grail" watches that shall address the serous watch collectors or consumers who have deeper pockets than the most of us.

And for the first special WWR #10, it will be none other but from most popular luxury watch brand in the world, before, now and forever into the future.  ROLEX.  Everybody knows the brand.  Even the homeless guy over the street to the nerdy computer geek who has never worn a watch in his whole life.  It's that thing that brands the person with a reputation of achievement and success likewise an automatic respect from the eyes of all mankind.  And you may expect that the Rollie that I will be recommending is the superman of watches, the Submariner, then I would cease this post to be too predictable.  Therefore it is the other stronger brother of the Sub, the SEA-DWELLER.  One of my own personal grail watches.   



For normal folks, they wouldn't tell the difference from the Sub,but for Rolex fans and WIS, they would view both entirely differently.  What I would note now are the differences that I like.

One noticeable difference is that this is the only Rolex without a date magnifier.  To which one of the things I don't like about Rolexes as for me, they give give an old man's watch look.  I mean I don't need my dates with lenses to be able to read them.

Next is by the name itself, a sea dweller would give you an instant perception that this watch can withstand more what what the ocean can offer.  And yes by water resistance, this is guaranteed 1,220 m (4000ft) vs the Sub's 300m WR.  And most importantly, this has a helium escape valve, really for one serious diver.

The case of 40mm is the same with the sub, this the SD is thicker to accomodate the helium escape valve.  Thus adding more wrist presence.


















And lastly, in the accounts of two sides of the coin or is a pro and a con at the same time, this model is already discontinued and already replaced with the bigger and badder Deep Sea Dweller, thus adds more uniqueness to those who own it.  Vintage collectors surely will try to get their hands on these in the coming years so if you ever get a chance to bid one at the bay or see it for sale at forums or watch stores, grab it if you can.  You won't regret it.  And you won't have to live by the thought that you just purchased one of the most common watches that people wear, but something that shares its classic beauty but with added oomppff! you can brag about.




Sunday, September 11, 2011

WWR# 9: Orient Ray Diver Watch EM65009D



You may think that I have any link with Orient or anything but I just can't help but recommend another watch from the brand after finding this over the net and just stuck with me to share it to rest of the public to know.

Another thing Orient is popular with from the views of WIS like me is the cool names that they name their watches for easier identification for watch fans. Their most popular watch I have to say is the Mako. It's a diver style watch with a 40mm diameter, auto movement 46946 and is available with quite a range of dial/bezel colors, blue being the most popular. By 2010, the Mako was upgraded to it's bigger brother and named it Mako XL which is by far one of the best sellers to date from Orient. I also did a review of the Mako XL in my previous post (check it out). And just last night, while hunting the net for horological species, I found this. It's the new diver watch called 'Ray'. And by the looks of it, it's another upgrade from the Mako.



The bezel and case is very similar. The hour and minute hands are upgraded and I like the ones on these better from the Mako. By far the best hands I've seen from lower end Orient diver watches. The other thing I like are the round indices that are inspired from their pro-saturation divers. The bezel insert is a mix fusion with the Mako and Mako XL, and has remained the lume pip on the 12 marker. The bracelet now is slightly decorated with polished lines which gives it a classier look. The specs read it has a 41mm case diameter and 22 lugs. The price is at $215 (same with the Mako). Below are the pictures from Orient. If you are looking for your first or next affordable mechanical diver, look no further.





for comparison sake, the Mako, Mako XL, Pro Diver and the Ray in order.