Sunday, March 24, 2013

John Mayer 2013 Google+ Hangout with Rolex

Just two days ago, bluesman and new guitar god John Mayer held his first live online concert after his vocal problems reappearred after his latest album Born and Raised was released.  I'm a big Mayer fan and though I should talk more about his comeback, this time its about the watch he was wearing.  We all know John is a huge watch fan and a serious watch collector (even one fan asked him during the hangout what he'd trade his whole watch collection for, money not considered) and every sighting of John is worth a look, aside from the great songs he can offer. He is also a contributor at Hodinkee.








For the Google+ hangout last March 22, he was wearing a gold vintage Paul Newman Rolex Daytona.





See the whole thing below.  Enjoy!

Top Gear with IWC, Rolex, Tag

Top Gear is undeniably one of the greatest TV shows mankind has ever produced which made it span to 19 Seasons and still going on going.  Reviewing and criticizing automobiles from Bugattis to Toyotas with British style humor and hunble high budget production, Clarkson, Hammond and May are like the Holy Trinity in anything Automobile related TV show.  Many have copied them, but failed undramatically never even reaching to second gear.

And usually we drool at the georgeous high powered machines that these guys toy with every week, WIS all over also guss about some sightings that run about their wrists.  In the 19th season, here's what I've caught so far.

Jeremy usually wears an Omega PO on rubber strap, but for this season, we spotted him wearing for the first time an IWC Pilot Chronograph.






Hammond, who I recall wears Breitlings was spotted with the latest Rolex Submariner Ceramic with Date 116610LN



Even sewing and renovating a car with it.  Now thats what we call a tool watch.








Hammond also wore  a Tag Heuer Grand Carrera Automatic.
                                            





One of their celebrity guests was music legend Mick Fleetwood sporting a Gold Rolex Submariner.




Seiko Sumo Scuba Divers Watch Review

You might be wondering why only now?  Why do the review on the Seiko Sumo when it has been around for 5 years already? Well, we think its never too late to write some thoughts on a spectacular piece such as the Sumo and honestly when can a watch geek ever stop talking about, looking at, admiring the Sumo.  Exactly why still we ask?  Here's what we think.







The Sumo, nicknamed by the fans on popular Seiko forums, was released way back in 2007 as part of the Prospex line, which stands for Professional specification.  From afar, the Sumo looked like another dressy diver that rolled up from the Seiko production floors in Japan to accommodate only the watch enthusiasts in their homeland.  But as soon as people started wearing them, and considering numerous stocks crawled out to other countries in Asia and even in the Americas, the owners themselves realized that this was just not another dressy desk diver to toy with, but this may very well be the "perfect" dive watch in any scale it  be.



What does that mean? Well the word perfect is a very strong descriptive word but that is exactly the word I uttered once I put in on and gave it a thorough review for almost an hour.



For one, the case design tops the list.  The case is classic representation of art in the hands of a watchmaker or shall we appropriately say hands of a robotic case machining machine. A quick glance along the sides of the case shows you detailed brushed and polished lines alternating like it was cut through a wind tunnel to flow through smoothly in the ocean.  The 44mm case, to which is kind of normal size for watches nowadays, stands perfectly on the wrist and flows smoothly as you move about.  The lugs extend long on the top and at the bottom giving the watch a good grip to stay flat on the wrist.  And speaking of long lugs, the Sumo's are one of the most beautiful I've seen in a divers watch.  The wide arched top to the narrowed end with chamfer going to the center where the bracelet solid end links meet, the total physique is just genius design and a work of art.



The Sumo doesn't have a crown guard.  And I would strongly agree with the designer on this move.  Crown guards would radically destroy the beauty and grace of the case.  And besides, positioning the crown at 4 o'clock serves the purpose already for both comfort and protection.



The rotating bezel, as customary in any analog diver watch, sits nicely on top of the case with the sides slightly covered by the case while the lug area is open for the user to operate.  Operation is quite smooth, not too hard, and not too smooth.  One thing I really like about this bezel is the insert has a recessed inner area which complements nicely going to the crystal giving the bezel insert more body and complexity.  Something you don't see quite often even on the Marine Master or even on Submariners.  The markings on the insert is wide and unique, a perfect match for the Sumo's case.



The Dial, oooh the dial. May it be black, blue or orange is just perfect too.  The large hour circle markers give that maxi look.  The controversial 12 hour indice together with the 9 and 6 o'clock markers complement the whole package with simplicity yet unique.  The date aperture shows the white date disk, where some preferred it to be black, but believe me it looks better the way it is, balancing the 9 o'clock marker.  And the all white 4 liner markings "Seiko", "Automatic", "Scuba", "200M" is also again perfect. Not cluttered, not sterile, just.....right.



The hands too are big and bold, leaving no time unnoticed while the subtle second hand glides smoothly along.  The tip of the second hand is inspired from the 6105's which I say is truly unique to Seiko.

Many have said that the weakest link of the Sumo is its crystal.  And that Sapphire is the best crystal for any watch especially for a Sumo in its price range.  Well, many have also countered that thought about the properties of mineral crystal that is more advantageous compared to that of Sapphire.  Seiko's Hardlex mineral crystal may scratch, but will never break and shatter.  It's more function and durability and puts aesthetics as second priority. Like what we have now with our cars, the window glass doesn't shatter like they used to in case of accidents, and of course we passengers don't want that.  So I guess I rest my case for the Sumo's crystal.  It rightfully deserves the famous Hardlex mineral crystal.





The Sumo's engine is Seiko's mid level 6R15 inhouse movement.  In a nutshell, its quite an upgrade which was based from the massly popular 7S26 movement that has hacking and winding capabilities.  But most importantly, 6R15 uses a more advanced Seiko Spron spring for its main spring and balance wheel, giving the Sumo more power reserve and better precision in achieving accuracy.  An in-depth review can be found at the Seikoholics corner.

Link to Seikoholics.





And lastly, the bracelet is solid stainless steel that is nicely decorated from the solid end link up to the clasp.  The 20mm lug width shouldering the wide 44mm case is unbalanced to many, but the ratio difference makes the look give more attention to the watch head and that the bracelet is there to support it.  That is what I hate about thick straight bracelets, it's like it's stealing the show of the watch itself.  It's well made and well finished, with extension clasp and double push botton folding clasp.  Some have preferred swapping it with Marine Master's ratcheting clasp, but the price for this additional accessory doesn't make it practical at all.  It would have been a miracle if Sumo would have this as its stock clasp.




If we look at pure current Seiko classic divers line, the four models below would come to my mind.  They represent the different levels of Seiko classic divers at different levels of price, finish, movement and overall value.  The SKX007 priced at $150-$200 is the entry level where everything is basic yet still very respectable and is the direct descendant of the classic Seiko divers watch.  The SBDX001  aka MM300 is priced around $2,200-$2,500.  Considered the grail for seikoholics sports a high end 8L35 Grand Seiko movement housed in a greatly finished monocoque case.  And the holiest grail will be the SBDB001 SD600 with GMT that is without barking into any Grand Seiko territory.  At a price point of around $4,000, it has the "best of both worlds" 5R66A spring drive movement, incredible finish with additional power reserve and GMT indicator.  With that line-up, I believe the Sumo SBDC001 has the perfect balance of price practicallity with outstanding value and quality and undeniable iconic design.




The Sumo, when it was released in 2007 had the price tag of almost $500.  Now its on the level of around $600.  The increase is primarily due to inflation of course the demand of this piece as people knew more about it.  Now we don't know exactly when Seiko stops making the Sumo, but I kid you not, as soon as the Sumo line finishes off with the last piece, the second hand market will quickly rise to its feet and accomodate the Sumo with a higher price tag worthy of its value.




and more pics to prove my point.















Here is an amazing detailed video from Watchtanaka.


  

Friday, March 22, 2013

Recommended Watch #40: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 49020/000R-9753


As for our 40th Recommended Watch, and as promised  that every 10th should be really something significant in the world of watches, we thought it would be best that it had to come from one of the holy trinity of Swiss watchmaking, Vacheron Constantin.  Now it would be a disgrace if this is the first time you've hear about the brand but something you must know about VC's history, the true claim that tops every watch brand is that they are the longest running watch company in the world, established in 1755, yup thats not a typo, by Jean-Marc Vacheron.  Then fast forward to the future, VC is now part of the Richemont Group, which now we can say a brother of Omega watches and definitely under good hands.  And aside from this known fact, VC is has a very interesting history when it comes to luxury sports watches.

During its 222nd anniversary in 1977, Vacheron Constantin launched a sports luxury watch to commemorate the celebration, which was model no. 222 of course.



And as you may have may have read or known, the 70's was a time when popular the horological genius Gerald Genta had designed the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilius, both iconic watches of today that resemble bold luxury pieces where its unique designs from dials, case to bracelets is unmistakeable even from a far.  And VC's 222 was even believed to be also a brainchild of Genta, it was actually Jorge Hysek who conceived also the  similarly looking timepiece, all steel with integrated bracelet and edgy case and bezel.  What makes the 222 very interesting is I find the design more exclusive and rare compared to the RO, Naut and Ingy considering the VC doesn't have anything that quite looks like this in the present line-up but has certainly is the inspiration or grand father of the ultra special  Overseas collection.  To which is my 40th WWR here in SOT.  The latest Vacheron Constantin Oversease Chronograph Perpetual Calendar in 18K 5N pink gold.



We can see some resemblance but i like it that VC has evolved their design into something more adaptable and different for our generation.  The Overseas is one beautiful watch that can virtually match any material, band, or wearer and not too common in the eyes of a noob.

I have chosen the overseas ref no. 49020/000R-9753 since ever since I laid eyes on the character Eric Murphy wearing one in HBO's Entourage way way back, it made a visual stamp of how it looked good and looked extermely luxurious and yet simple, making even the WIS in me look and back and think again if it is really something cool and not too blingy for those at the top.



Though I cannot say that this is not the exact model that Eric Murphy wore on that show, but Im quite sure it was on a Gold case, and brown leather which complements the case like a golden saddle on a fine brown thorough bread, strong yet classy.



If you can see, unlike the naut, RO and Ingy where the case and bezel designs are too similar to its version of todays, the Overseas has a more simplistic and VC logo like bezel, over a perfectly edgy round case.

Though I usually don't usually like integrated band design like those of many Oris and Techno marine's, i believe only an AP RO, PP Naut, IWC Ingy and VC Overseas can exceptionally pull it off.  This design makes strap changing a headache and very exclusive, but the case design can never have a regular lug design, it would be a disaster.



The VC Overseas aside from cased in precious metals, under the hood is also something very practical and useful.  The chronograph, perpetual calendar and antimagnetic are great complications for real everyday tasks.

Technical details below.

Movement:
Reference: 1136 QP
Energy: automatic
Thickness (mm): 7.90
Diameter (mm): 28.00 (11''' ¼)
Number of parts: 228
Number of jewels: 37
Frequency: 3 Hz (21'600 v.p.h.)
Power-reserve (hours): 40 approx.
Indication: hours, minutes, small second, perpetual calendar (hand-type calendar, day of the week, month, leap year, moon phases), chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour counters



Case:
Material of the case: 18K 5N pink gold
Size (mm): 42.00
Thickness (mm): 12.80
Back: Solid caseback stamped with the "Overseas" medallion
Water-resistance (bar): 15

Others:
Material of the dial: metal
Strap: alligator Mississippiensis
Clasp: folding clasp
Specificity:
Screwed-down crown
Screwed-down pushpiece
Anti-magnetic protection to 25,000 A/m
Delivered with a second strap
Delivered with a corrector pen

Now the Overseas is definitely a superb watch that doesn't get too much fan fare compared to the RO, Naut and Ingy, and that it isn't a Genta offspring, but I believe being the odd model from the four yet is on the same level when it comes to design, craftsmanship and history from the oldest watch making company around that still to this day amidst the many evolutions in time, sits atop with the rest relying it's own brains to rival the best.