Friday, September 21, 2012

WWR #30: Grand Seiko Hi Beat SBGH001

In the world of mechanical watches, there has been the long term battle for accuracy that for the longest time, a pure mechanical watch would already have an acceptance of such.  That is compare to electronic quartz and atomic timekeeping.  And aside from complications such as tourbillions, there has been once key aspect which has been talked about often as its relation to its accuracy.  Which is, the level of frequency if the watch.

The normal frequency of a watch is 5-6 bps (beats per second) or 18,000-21,000 bph.  It has been proven way back when pocket watches were the norm, 5-6bps was enough to achieve a level of accuracy that would make railroad schedules synch avoiding catastrophic crashes and would in majority pass COSC standards when professiionally adjusted.  So why the need a Hi-beat?  

Well, same goes with a lot of watches where there are features that we simply do not practically need. Its because in the expensive and interesting  world of watch collecting, we don't necessarily buy because we need it, we buy because we appreciate it.  We appreciate the hard work of the people who have worked behind it from conceptualization to design to production and the whole package.  Whatever that oddly new feature is, or call it complication, its worthwhile most of the time if its not that easy to do and it doesn't sound practically stupid. 

Enter  the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat.








The Grand Seiko hi Beat might look like an ordinary 3 hander but under the hood, to be able to offer the smoothest second sweep from a 100% mechanical watch, you must have the most advanced materials, robust engineering, and flawless design to make it work.  I mean if the mechanical gears run twice that it normally should, then that part must be twice as durable that the normal.

 

Though a hi beat movement has been around the longest time and some are still working as of this day, its a testament that this is not as delicate as it seems to be nor is it more high maintenance that the usual lady in a big city.



 Justifying the price of this beautiful piece should not be about accuracy, but all the components encased into this watch that make it twice that watch it is. And by standards it self, who has a higher standard than Grand Seiko?  Price of this piece starts around $6K.  A definite WWR grail from SOT.    

Here are the technical laydown on this grail from the official website.

Drive system Mechanical Automatic (Hand winding capability)
Caliber No. 9S85
Case Stainless steel
Case back See-through screw case back with sapphire crystal
Glass High definition dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Bracelet Solid stainless steel
Buckle Stainless steel with three-fold clasp with push button release
Accuracy +5 ~ -3 seconds/ day
Water resistance 10 bar
Magnetic resistance 4800 A/m (60 gauss)
Weight 151g
Case thickness 13.0 mm
Case diameter 40.0mm
Jewels 37







Thursday, August 30, 2012

WWR #29: Longines Legend Diver with Date

Not many people know this but Longines is brand with a rich history dating back to the 19th century up to the current era.  And one of their famous stories is their pioneering pilot watch that emerged from the 1930s under the first man to fly over the atlantic ocean, Charles Lindbergh.  Then fast forward to the next few decades, embracing the quartz revolution. Well we know that story.  And up to what we see now, Longines is a brand donned by power tennis legends and an Indian Beauty.

But during the 1960s,  Longines was part of the Diving watch frenzy.  And like JLC, Hamilton, IWC, UG and Vulcain,  the brand developed a Super Compressor Dive watch.  It was called the Longines Legend diver as seen on the picture below.





Stunning watch isn't it?  Well since the past few years has been the time where we've seem numerous remakes and tributes is just about anything that happened about half a century ago, Longines, re-released the new version of this legendary diver.  Now what struck me with this watch is that compared to other tributes from the 60s, this model resembles so much from the original one that if you'd see a mint condtion 60s Legend Diver.

The new one is upgraded with a Sapphire Crystal with AR coating, screw in crowns, new movement with 28,800 bph.  Now this tribute watch has two versions, with and without date.  The one I am recommending is the with date.  Though the ultimate remake would be the no date but I just can't live without a date complication.  And it's the best distinguishing mark compared to the old one.

Here is the new legend diver after 50 years.

the no date

                                



the with date




So why this Longines compared from other super compressor dive watches around? The price is just below $2,000 USD, great tribute watch, from a trusted brand, and most of all, if the Omega that I featured last week could be a contender for the one watch to fit all, then this would be one of it's greatest challenger.  The Longines would look great under a dress or wet suit.  Young or old. Contemporary or an artist. 

Well the design might not be blendable to everyone's taste but I'm sure those with good ones will consider it.  My initial reaction to the legend diver was that of the hour hand.  I first thought it was too short, but then again, weren't hour hounds supposed to be, to be recognizable and big compare to the minute hand.  And if you were the 50s designer of the original one, there was no other way, and the design they ended up is perfect to which I would conclude.  Some designs need to grow on us.  We are not all masters of our taste.  That's what for me a good design is.  A design that not just acts as a pusher but actually teaches us and makes our way to the roots of our tastes and molds and corrects it.  And the simple dial, and inner rotating bezel, crown design, and the most common looking case, sets this to be an immortal classic, that is not that popular to the point of being unique. 

Longines usually has no defined image to their watches except for the Lindbergh hour watch which is a totally different interesting story in itself, and so with this Legend diver, I hope they carry on to this type of image with their sport/dive watch categories and forget the urge to follow the trend but rather be the trail blazer.   

Friday, August 10, 2012

WWR #28 - Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 2503.33

Omega has got to be the 2nd most popular watch brand out there after Rolex.  Without a doubt.  Well its like the 2nd choice from buying a Rollie.  Omega also has the most extensive successful marketing strategies versus any watch brand.  From James Bond, to the Olympics, to Gorgeous George, to Couching flying Zhang, to Nicole, and list goes on and on.  And not only that, their biggest marketing success came from the success of their most popular Moonwatch the Speedmaster.

But I am not recommending for this week the Speedmaster as this is a must have grail in watch addict's bucket list.  So I am recommending a more simple yet elegant and likewise a master in another element of the human world.  The Seamaster Aqua Terra 2503.33.




What struck me about this particular Omega? Being the first to appear on my WWR list?  Well just look at it.  Simply elegant, pure, calm and downright capable.  Imagine this, a pre-loved mint Mercedes Benz 300SL, in all of its glory speeding up to the hill with glittering beach view on the side, ramping its 6-cylinder engine as it conquers the slope and roars like a king while doing it, then goes downhill during the day's sunset and heads down to the sandy shores speeding gracefully looking for a perfect spot to lay back and have a sunset picnic.  Scenic isnt it?  Well thats how I view this watch.  Elegant white dial, perfect blue hands, accurate and durable movement, well crafted case, and before I miss it, resists water worth 150m of pressure.  I would like to think that if you can only have one watch and that the Rolex Submariner might be too common to or too replicated for your liking, that this watch will fit the bill.  At any occassion, any environment, and in any gentleman's personality, no one I mean not a single soul can go wrong by wearing the 2503.33. You object Sir?  Why not the Explorer? - No date.  Why not the daytona? - too busy and too pricey.  Or why not the PO Seamaster? - Well its macho rugged and not as versatile and humble as this.



The only thing too bad about this recommendation is that, the watch is no longer available, Omega is not producing one any more, well it makes the hunt more interesting.  Sure there are new Aqua Terras out there that George is courting you but this specific one is just magnificent.  I always have a fond for classic and iconic styled watches that even in a million years would still look good and won't get caught by any fashion and trend police.


What I also look for in watches is the style that could match up any shoe you'd like to fit it with.  Brushed stainless steel, plush premium leather, silicon rubber, ballistic nylon, name it bro, this one is up to game.  Just google a pic of the 2503.33 and you'll see what I mean.



There is also a black dialed version of this baby, but the blue hands is just a large margin win.





Here are the technical info on the watch

Crystal - Domed Scratch Resistan Sapphire
Size - 39.2mm
Movement - Omega 2500, self winding chronometer, Co-axial Escapement with rhodium plated finish, PR 48 hours.
Water Reistance - 150m / 500ft
Transparent Caseback
Date function.



As a management professional, i can say this is a true KISS watch.  They kept it smart and simple.


 


Thursday, July 5, 2012

WWR #27: Ball Trainmaster One Hundred Twenty

When I was at my local tailor shop the other day to have my suit done, I was flipping the pages of this fashion magazine and admiring the sweet models and nice suits in its prints.  While quickly turning the pages for boring features, an small glimpse of something familiar caught my eye at the least focus area of my natural lenses.  It was a watch.  Gold case, brown leather strap, grayish dial, well don't see that quite often I said.

I thought it was from the usual big Swiss brands that offer fine haute horlogerie and nothing less.  But I was surprised that it was from the hardcore (well that's my personal perception of the brand) Ball as the matter of fact. Those tough anti magnetic water resistant gas power lighted watches has come up with an elegant dress watch to celebrate 120 years of the brand.  And, hence its name the Ball Trainmaster One Hundred Twenty.  I love the name.  Simple and meaningful.

Here is the gorgeous watch.






 The case is rose gold at a perfect dress size of 39.5mm. An anti-reflective sapphire crystal protects the grey sunburst dial that is nicely complemented with gold markers that have gas powered lights that will illuminate and eliminate all non luminous dress watches.  Its powered by an ETA 2892 movement that gives you the standard automatic movement with date function and over course hacking and handwinding capabilities.

With the gas lights on...


Well I really can't say anything about this watch but pure absolute drooling praise.  I mean the reason dress watches aren't so popular as dive watches or chronographs, is for the fact that they are so refined looking and doesn't offer anything more but elegance and formality.  While for this, at $6000, you can still get that elegant classy look plus a 120 year heritage of a tough watch brand that simply gives you legibility at night when most evening affairs are done.  And its not from the usual suspects.  Its not mainstream.  For me its one of the most underrated brands that exist today.  And this watch is their cream of the crop.  Get this while you still can.

Get a Ball for your next ball.

Friday, June 8, 2012

WWR #26: Tissot PR516 Automatic Chronograph

I was never fan of the Tissot brand especially their T-Touch series of watches.  Though Tissot carries with it a lot of history way back, it never came to my subjective taste of owning one with the styles they offer, from sport to dress to divers, something's always a bit off.

But it has now changed now with their vintage inspired lines in the sports category.  And particular that took my eye's attention is the PRS 516 Automatic Chronograph.  There are different variations as to color combinations, all of them classic beauties, but I'd like the white dial version.  It matches well with the black tachymeter bezel.  And of course its an automatic with the legendary Valjoux 7750 movement in it.  This series has some quartz models too. Everybody is reviving vintages nowadays and Tissot's execution wasn't too far or too weird.  It revived the old model back but still differentiates it numerously from the past which is the right way to do it.




  


The rotor which is designed in a vintage style sports steering wheel is quite a treat at the back.























Saturday, May 26, 2012

Music Review: Born and Raised by John Mayer






 Household name John Mayer has been in the news lately about his comeback after a two year silence after the widely talked about Rolling Playboy interviews. It seems the public eye had more interest in his up and down private gone kiss and tell life than the reason why he ever was a celebrity in the first place. But here at SOT, we vow to focus on what should matter to you and leave the gossip to Perez and dumb blonde bombshells.

John has come a long way. From his breakthrough success as a pop prince to becoming Slowhand Jr. and settling down as a Battle Star right up to his hibernation to be reborn as a Western Cowboy. John announced "Born and Raised" as his next album mid last year and was continually giving fans scenic glimpse of what the album will be intil its official release today.





"Shadow Days" was the first single that was released a couple weeks back then followed with its own music video that would set the mood for the whole album. The song starts of with a drum roll as John starts his trip to the west in search for something beneath the cony mountains and long stretch of fields playing his new custom Martin atop his defender. The words chosen are like excerpts from cliches that 90% of them can be found on popular songs sprawling around. Combined with a major un-complex tune, I could easily imagine that this could be a song written by studio songwriters for American Idol winners. The great thing though is that the guitar work is still comprehensively talented amidst the major notes as basis. A true testament that John up to this moment is still more of a guitar player than a singer or songwriter.



First track off the bat is "Queen of California".  It starts with an acoustic strum that's bright as sunny skies and beaches of California.  The tune suggests of a hopeful dream becoming a reality and freedom from the past as the beats starts digging in to your bones. The guitar blends and solo is a perfect compliment, a tone similar to what was introduced to us in Shadow Days, that has a country slide laid back character quite different from previous JM strat settings.

"Age of Worry", even though in some ways it has no relation whatsoever, but the track reminds me of the Christmas season.  The echo of the percussion and winter hums give me a picture of carolers in the frigid streets singing to their hearts desire in a cold silent night.  But this is about giving up worrying, truly we should not care.  John composed this song straight out, its not guitar driven, and it feels the class and power of an orchestra.  Though John is not known as a powerful singer, but he
sang this perfectly considering his condition and capacity to strut those vocal chords.  Its his song anyway.  Something new and surprising.  So far liking it.


Olivia Oliva Oliva....  Many for sure wants to know who she is.  And what hes done to the Connecticut native, as he has composed a somewhat intriguing and mysterious song that we again would not want to over analyze further.  All we care is the emotion in it and rhythmic electric guitar strums all throughout the song.  A breather for the left lung from the Martin strums.  And a solo widely reminds us of the old bluesman in John without compromising the whole character of the album.

Ahh yes the flagship track. What is an album like this without a harmonica eh?  Many said he's mirroring Dylan and makes a Dylanish album.  Dylan is different, though blows that harmonica and hungs a guitar around his neck, but John delivers this album with his own results.  And we've heard of what John has been up to even though he is away from the limelight for a while, and we can confidently say that the simple lyrical genius of this song is for everyone, to relate, to tell, to share, and say a story that even the most successful music artists in our generation has his own gaps.  I personally love the words in this, its yes hard to take and hard to fake but luckily for John has come to being reborn and re-raised shall I say.  To most of us, we may still be on the way and this track is for us.  When I first listened to this track, I instantly remembered is Adele's "Someone like you".  The recognizable tune has some similarities on some parts of this track and seemingly coincidental that Adele also mentions something about being born and raised on her song. But wait, John reprises this on the last track.

"If I Get Around to Living" is undoubtedly my favorite track, just ask my old school record player.  At first I said, well next track please... but as it moved on to a few minutes on the track where a familiar guitar tune comes up, a gave it the whole nine yards.  And yes got to replay and replay it again and again and again again.  Yes its CSN inspired or majorly influenced, but come on... it may not be that original but its excellently produced.  Its got the typical ingredients of a CSN song, continuous parallel sounds of progressive smooth old school folk and pop electric and acoustic guitar, organic country keys, and a seemingly endless rhythm that housed like 3 songs or so that you wish would never end and will just play forever and ever.  We've never seen John play like this, and its total prodigy.  What a tribute to the classics through CSN.  His transition from the innocent looking acoustic artist to a mature long haired hat wearing Montana resident is as smooth and beautifully unpredictable as this song goes on.  Can we possibly have them collaborate in a stage performance soon?  Get well soon John.  Aced it on this track.

The other remaining tracks are notably good too.  They fill-up what needs to be done, you know what I'm saying.  It completes everything without competing.  Well less competition is not favorable sometimes but we can live through em.  The track "A Face to Call Home" has an inspiring ending giving us a contemporary message that the pop prince has come home sweet home after being long gone.

One of the biggest hurdles with this album is that their ain't going to be tours and live performances to promote this album. because of John's current condition, but I'm confident with this one that it'll live on through.  Why?  Because a well made record will succeed and will see through it to everyone's airwaves by itself.  So am I saying that John has rebounded from the not so wonderful heartbreak album?  Well honestly after the Continuum era, I've accepted the fact of the human life cycle and  thank the Lord almighty daily that we have an artist like John that roams around us everyday.  Born and Raised, through the words of John is the most honest album hes ever made.  Well, it kinda is.  Honest that its an acceptance of saying its ok, its ok to be like this or like that, to come to this or that.  We can't always justify everything, it just has to be that way.  No grammys, no blues licks, no pop sensation, no tour, just the pleasure of writing songs and sharing them.  Know what matters the most.








   

Saturday, May 5, 2012

WWR 25: Seiko SBPG001 Spirit Digital Watch

I was watching 'Octupussy' a couple of nights ago and was amazed by how Bond films were before.  How movie was shot, the camera angles, the lines, the pace of the movie, the fashion, style, and of course, Bond's gadgets.  Goes to show what was the "it" thing back in '83 and how James Bond movies are a reflective on what the world was by the time it was made.

And since this is WWR, in a WIS world, the popular Seiko in the film was the Seiko S605831 and its popular "Cleavage" shot by ladyman Mr. Moore who played Bond.  All throughout the film, Bond wore this watch, from action sequences to formal evening events with the villains.  And got me wondering that can a digital watch be ever worn in a formal attire? Under the cuffs perhaps?  Well, I dont think G shocks will ever gonna be fitting so it must have a stainless steel construction same as the iconic Seiko that Moore wore, sans the TV screen of course, too gadgety for our times today.


So I went out to look for an available Stainless Steel digital watch in the market right now that is not a cheap ultra crazy colorful fashion throw away watch but one that is built that can be worn by a special agent, and still provide the class, pedigree and complete convenience of a digital watch.  Well obviously enough, I found no other watch that fits the bill.




My 25th WWR is the Seiko SBPG001 Spirit Digital Watch.  This 40mm squareish cased digi is housed in a stainless steel case and strapped in a stainless steel bracelet that is practically influenced by the advent of digital quartz watches in the 80s.  This watch is from the Spirit line from Seiko which I believe are JDMs as I don't see them often in other markets and is the outcome of the Power Design projects by Seiko.

Details  as follows

  • Case/bracelet: SS
  • Movement: S760 Solar
  • Crystal: Hardlex
  • Lumi Brite: Panelight( EL back Light)
  • Accuracy: +/-20 sec per month
  • Water proof: 10ATM water resistance
  • Automatic time setting: This watch can receive official standard Atomic Clock frequencies of Japan, Germany, England and the United States
  • Width: 40 mm (without the crown)
  • Thickness: 10 mm
  • Full Auto Calender
  • World time 32 Cities


This is tagged at $322.  






This technological classic beauty brings hues from the age of the 80's but the innovative prowess of the new millennium and it'll fit comfortably under your sleeve to aid you on your journey to Octopussy's Lair at wall street and grab your slice of success.