Recommended Watch #37: Glycine Incursore III 44 Automatic ref. 3900/3922

I've been away for a couple of weeks during the year-end holidays and now I'm back with with hopefully more goods to contribute to Shots of Thoughts.

To be back on track, here is WWR# 37.

There are some designs that we most of the time ignore the first time we laid our eyes on them, but came to appreciate the 2nd time around.  A love not at first site.  And one of those pieces or kind of pieces that was not love at first site was the so called 'California Dial'.

What is a California dial you say? It is also called the High Visibility or the Roman-Arabic dial.  It is basically Roman Indices on the upper portion of the dial and Arabic on the bottom.  With the 3-6-9-with rectangular markers and the 12 o'clock military symbol.  Its kind of an art-deco style dial that first appeared on Rolex bubble backs way back in the 1940s.   Where did the name California came from? Based from web sources all over and account of vintage documents and watches, this style of a dial was patented by Rolex in 1941, but got it's famous name from an LA based dial refinisher Kirk Rich who did this kind of this design on some vintage watches he worked on, to which became popular to a point that watch dealers already referred it to the "California Dial". 

Images grabbed from Jake's Rolex World blog.

Now in relation to this art-deco dial design, This watch caught my eye while just lazily browsing over the web.  Now you may say, PAM 424 is a great tribute to the vintage 3466 with a faithful revival of the California Dial, but I wanted something on a regular shaped watch case that may not be as 100% homage to the bubble backs back then but can stand on its own.  And this is what Glycine is for me.

Glycine has quite a reputation from collectors of having well balance and clean designs on their watches with minimal striking features that makes them interesting.  And with the Incursore, the execution of a California Dial on a round military watch case and indice set like hands is clean and humble yet remarkably striking to those who now about the design.  The two below are what I would choose from the Incursore line. 

Ref 3900 with brown leather strap with just the name Glycine on sans the logo

 

And the ref. 3922 with black strap and Logo on.  Both have automatic movements.

 

Here are the specs from Glycine website.

Movement
Caliber:	Swiss automatic movement
Functions:	hours, minutes and seconds, date display in window
Size:	11 1/2"
Jewels:	25
Power Reserve:	38 hours
Hz:	4/28'800 vibrations per hour
Finish:	nickel coated oscillating weight on ball bearing, decorated "Côtes de Genève"
Case, Dial & Hands
Material:	stainless steel
Diameter:	44mm without crown
Height:	9.95 with see-through back
Finish:	polished / satin
Waterproof:	10 atm
Back:	screwed see-through sapphire glass
Glass:	sapphire
Dial:	black with 4 roman and 4 arabic figures with SL, black and dark brown with 4 arabic figures and strikes with SL
Hands:	white with SL or steel with SL
Crown:	screw-down
Leather strap
Material:	calf
Colours:	calf sewing: black, brown, light brown, blue calf croco style: black, brown, light brown, blue
Width:	22mm horns / 22mm buckle
Buckle:	belt
Bracelet
Material:	stainless steel
Finish:	satin
Length:	190mm incl. endpieces
Width:	22mm horns / 18mm buckle
Clasp:	diver

There is also a manual wind Incursore 44mm version and has a cool second hand at 6 o'clock which is true to the Rolex patent as seen above.

Prices of these models hover around $900-$1100 which is a good deal for a well built "Intruder" watch with High Visibility and art-deco dial.

Recommended Watch #36: Timex Traveller Series World Time ref. no. T2N943

It was about 5 years ago when a new watch brand raised a couple of eyebrows in the watch market.  That watch brand was TX which stood for Techno Luxury.  But with its entry of multi-hand quartz movements house in German inspired cases with a price tag of around $500-$600, it was in for huge competition with mainstay Swiss, Japanes watch brands.  So only time could tell how they would be able to survive. And as predicted, not long.  Lived 4 years to be exact.  Though I wouldn't say TX watches weren't good, they actually were.  The design was straight out breeded in-house, no easy way homage/rip-off.  And a reliable made movement at that.  But I guess, that because of the fact that TX was a mid-tier watch brand from Timex that people can always associate with an affordable watch that keeps on ticking and can be found at Wal-mart or Target had a hard time convincing them of the price twice its siblings.

But now, after a couple of years after TX was shut down, I believe Timex has done what it should have done in the beginning.  Make it a Timex.  An affordable Timex.

During its TX era, there was one specific model that caught my eye.  It was the TX 500 Series World Time that featured an independent world time indicator in retrograde fashion, a summer-winter indicator and the usual 3-hander with date-only window.   The dial had thes embossed wordl map in black-gunmetal gray colors with thick hands and striking markers.  The case shape was also wide at the bottom, shollowing at the top to make it a steady and elegant decoration on yout wrist.  And with an onion crown at 3'clock and a wicked classy bracelet, this watch was a winner.

        

 
       
So when Timex reintroduced the World Timer, now tiwh a Timex badge on it and a $300 price tag on it, this now surely belongs as the 36th Weekly Watch Recom here at Shots of Thoughts.

          

Now, its not exactly the same watch as before, since it has more simpler hands and indices on the dial, a more subtle round knurled crown and a leather or a standard oyster style bracelet on it.  But still, it has that same movement powering it which Timex now labels them "Intelligent Quartz".  Now I don't quite find the name great at all but to now see a Timex badge on it is a more revealing success for me.  It shows Timex has moved up to the ladder of ordinary easy readers to multi-hand quartz movements without fearing of upping the price and maintaining the American badge that is quite a household name in the watch department.  And before I forget, one great thing that sets it apart from the TX brother is of course, the indiglo as quietly stated at the bottom of the dial.  Some may find the indiglo thing too nerdy camper for this type of watch but hey, trust me you'll need it upon checking the time when you up a thousand miles in the air and too lazy to turn on the cabin light. 

The Timex Traveller Series is now available in Timex shops all around, right in time for the holiday season.

WWR #35: Seiko Bullhead Chronograph ref no. SCEB009

Way back in 1969, in the world of horology, a break through emerged that changed the industry forever.  That breakthrough was quartz technology. And in the background, there was also a first for the pure mechanical aficionados, it was the first automatic chronograph, the 6139 calibre.  And believe it or not, these two"Firsts" came from Seiko.  Although Seiko was not alone on their feat on the first Automatic Chronograph, it just went to show how Seiko is serious in watchmaking, as if you still didn't know that, and that not everything non swiss made is not worth the look.

And following closely to those historical feats is Seiko's release of another automatic chronograph the 6138-0040/0039 that made an impact to the watch aficianado's world back then and today.  And, to marry those two significant stories, Seiko released a faithful tribute to the iconic Bullhead chronograph.  So for our 35th Weekly Watch Recom here at SOT, we recommend the latest Quartz Chronograph from the Seiko Spirit line, the new SCEB009 or the Modern Bullhead.

Well if we compare it millimeter by millimeter, the Modern Bullhead isn't a faithful homage to the iconic 6138 Bullhead, but rather a remake that will adapt to the signs of the times as what the older brother was back then.  The biggest difference is of course the movement.  The new one is powered by the reliable 7T92 quartz chronograph movement which also powers other Seikos in different line-ups.  Why not mechanical?  Well only Seiko could tell but if it were, imagine how much the asking price would be.

Another difference is the chrono registers on the dial.  The new one has the running seconds counter at the bottom replacing the vertical day-date of the old one.  The new date aperture resides near the 5 o'clock marker.

The case difference is still to be investigated.  I haven't seen one in person yet so probably a later update of this article will surely come once its release.

I also like the oyster style bracelet on the new one, though the fish bone bracelet of the old was comfortable and classically stylish, it was a bit flimsy.

There are also four variants to choose from.  Still, I'm a bit conservative myself in terms of color that is why I recommend the 009 version, fits in all dress styles.

                           

 


And lastly, the price tag on the Seiko Japan site is around 26k Yen which converts to around $315, which makes it another bang for the buck chronograph watch.

If you've never had a Seiko chronograph before, this watch will be a good start, along side to accurately guide you good old mechanical Seiko Divers too.

WWR #34: Ingersoll Scott ref. IN8402GY

A few weeks ago, news broke out in the horological world about the the rarest (only two in the world) watch to be Auctioned.  And apart from that, its a Patek, and previously owned by guitar god himself, Eric Clapton.  Price will be monumental and for sure will break records.  Which brings us to a question, did Clapton wear this watch?  I think not.  I believe there are watches meant to be preserved in a vault somewhere and be unearthed from golden slumber again for the world to appreciate.  And then there are watches that are meant to be worn and care less about scratches, theives, resale value nor personal status.

Our 34th Weekly Watch Recommendation is the Ingersoll Scott ref . IN8402GY.

Now a lot of people shun the idea of a Chines made watch.  Yes, Ingersoll is an American brand, designed in Germany, and made in China.  For me, it really doesn't matter where its made, as long as it delivers what its supposed to and commensurate to the price tag.

What atttracted me to this watch is that it looks similar to Clapton's Patek.  Now the monumental price tag of that Patek is nowhere for the masses, this Ingersoll is.  Ingersoll Scott to be specific.

Scott is highly influences by the styling and cues of a classic Swiss dress watch with complications.  Now at first glance this may seem to have a split chronograph and possibly a perpetual calendar, it actually doesn't.  What the Ingersoll Scott has is a moon phase, day, date and month complications aside from the usual three hander.  Now the two chronograph-like buttons are a wild guess for me, it could either set-up any of those features mentioned above.  Will try to get my hands on one and update on the specific button functions.

Here is a view of the movement from the exhibition caseback.  We would all know that only a company named Seagull would create this movements in China, thus we'd assume Ingersoll bought their movements from them.  The movement is labelled as a 435 calibre automatic with 35 jewels.

The case size is 45mm including the crown with mineral glass on the top and bottom.  The dial is a light gray color with blue hands, big aperture under the 12 o'clock for the date and and roman numeral indices fill the whole dial.  Water resistant is 3atm, pretty standard for dress watches like these.  Do take note at the bottom of the dial, the print Germany Design. Well I find it to marketing cheesy and honest too.  The less knowledgeable on the WIS stage would find this value adding to the product while the rest of us so called idiot savants would know what this means.

But with all these characteristics at hand, as popularly would be the outcome, a lot of serious watch lovers would neglect the idea of having this strapped to their wrists.  But I tell you, in these times of economic struggle, where ever you put your business too, life ain't as easy as it used to be.  And it that these kind of watches come in.  With a dollar price tag of around  450$, it doesn't at all account to a mortal sin to have this to be paired with your everyday work suit, dress shirt and tie, to tell everyone that sometimes, we don't need to be extravagant, but just be humble and practical.  Yes that is what that watch is, humble and practical. If you are one, got get one.

WWR #33: Orient Flight ref ER2A003B Pilot Watch

Looking for your first pilot watch?  One of our favorite watch brands from Japan, Orient, has just release a new Pilot watch. And this ain't like the previous "Aviator" watch where it didn't look nearly anywhere in the cockpit of a flying machine.  This is actually the first Japanes Branded Pilot watch that is very true to the original Beobachtungs-uhr which meant Observation Watch of the Germans way back in World War II.  It even has the dial Type B of a B-uhr watch.

When I first saw this, I just couldn't believe it had an Orient badge on it.  One would assume it to be photoshopped but no, this appears on Orient's website under the model number ER2A003B.  I then did a fist pump as I have dreamt for a bang for the buck pilot watch for years and Orient has answered my prayers.

The watch comes with a 48743 in house movement which I would suspect to be a workhorse automatic watch that will have no winding or hacking function.  This is the same movement as their popular Bambino.  Honestly, I never felt the need for a winding/hacking function especially Orient watches were the second hand instantly runs even as I pick-up the watch.

Another great thing about this watch is YES it has a date window at 3 o'clock marker.  Usually, B-uhr inspired watches don't have this, and is the deal breaker for me for not purchasing them.  A big plus for Orient.

And, for collectors, this comes with lots of colors to choose from.  Personally, I liked the classice black dial stainless steel version, the PVD black dial version and the blue dialed stainless steel version (a great first blue dial watch if ever you don't have one yet).  The blue dial seems to come with a brown leather strap, contrasting but matching color combination.  

Here are some specs from Orient's site.

Mechanical Movement : ORIENT caliber 48743 Made in Japan
Self-winding movement
21 jewels
21,600/hour vibrations
Date indicator

Stainless steel case
Crystal glass
Screw caseback, Screwed-down crown
Genuine leather strap
Water resistant to 100m
Diameter 42.00mm
Thickness 11.65mm


I haven't seen this watch in the metal yet nor have I seen any live pictures of it.  This was just practically released just a few weeks ago and I believe SOT featured this first.  I have no word on pricing yet and haven't found any for sale yet but I'm pretty sure this will be around $150-$200 price range which is pretty affordable.  Will update you guys if I have further information on this, for now, this is SOT's Weekly Watch Recom #33.

Recent updates everyone, Orient Flight has now landed in Long Island.



Available for $159 here.

WWR #32: Orient Star WZ0201EL collaboration with SOMES

The leather strap craze is on full speed.  And about 70% of the new watches purchased by any random buyer are replaced with a thick leather strap.  I think the Nato strap craze has just ended.  And it's very fitting that Orient Star from Japan, a higher end brand from Orient Watch Co. has an offering that will make every leather lover drool and every in-house purist scramble for his/her credit card.

My 32nd weekly watch recommendation is the Orient Star WZ0201EL with collaboration from SOMES.

What initially attaracted me to this watch is the cushioned case that is similar to vintage japan watches of the 60s and 70s but with Orient Star giving it an elegant twist.  Below is a picture of a French Market Seiko, the 7006-7020 that rather looks similar to this Orient Star.

The 43mm case seems to have a longitudinal base then resedes to a cobra like cushion which will definitely give you mysterious 2nd look of how the design actually is.  The placement of the power reserve is perfectly balanced with the Orient Star logo on the bottom.

                       

The movement in this watch is the 40M50 21 Jewel in house movement made in Japan.  It has a power reserve of 40 hours and accuracy of about +25/-15 sec/day.



The other great thing about this watch is the thick sporty bridle type leather from Somes.  The stitches aren't what you normally see on stock ones.  And is quite relatively unique for Orient Star and with a price of around US$ 500, a definitely good deal.

A wrist shot I found over the net.

And some links where there are for sale.

Link 1
Link 2
Link 3

It's clear that this is another all occasion watch.  From casual to formal, without hitting the pool of course as this is good at 50m WR only, this watch will fit purely well for a man with great taste and appreciation of value.

WWR #31: Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic 44mm

30 Weekly Watch Recom posts ago, Hamilton made it to my first recommendation because it had to be.  A mid level watch brand that brings you the Swiss satisfaction covered with an American utilitarian look.  The watch that I am going to recommend for this week is the upsized version of the most iconic Hamilton watches out there. 

Now if you remember the time when Rolex upsized there iconic Submariner with the Deep Sea - Sea Dweller, the big boys celebrated but the purists shunned the bigger brother.  But on my side, we don't have all the same wrist sizes, and don't have all the same tastes, that would be weird to think if it did.  And now that the modern day standards of men's watch sizes is from 40 - 44mm, and anything below or outside that is somewhat unacceptabley puny or too wall clocky designed just for the cocky.  So Hamilton, did exactly that and co-released an upsized 40mm Khaki Field to a 44mm model.

Here are pictures of the iconic 40mm Khaki and the 44m one.  Any differences? Just minimal.

 

The obvious difference aside from the size is the background color and finish of the dial and the red handed second hand on the 40mm.  The hour and minute hands still incorporate the same style but with a bolder and edgier look. The bracelets seem to have a difference on the middle links but I'm sure most would replace them with thick military/aviation style leather straps.So with these minimal differences, it basically boils down to size.  What size fits you most.  Its like jeans of the same model and cut but on a different waistline.  I have a puny wrist of just about 6.25 inches but seems 44mm watches fit right in with no problem.  So basically its what you prefer.  And of course, the greates advice prior buying is to actually wear one.  Try it on for size, and actual hands on is the biggest deciding factor in getting which and what model.

The 44mm still has the same movement, the ever reliable 2824 ETA automatic movement with handwinding capability and date complication.  The 40mm retails around $500 and the 44mm about $700.  Minimal price differences too right?  Either way, no once can get wrong.  The 44m model has some modern style looking color combination on pvd on its range but I'm more of a classic iconic styled taste person, and want my watches that never goes out of style. 



Here's a nice video from watchtanaka that displays the beauty of this classic.