WWR# 24: Kobold Soarway GMT

I really find the Watch Snob column over at askmen.com very entertaining and insightful at the same time as we see a character, no one knows if he's real or  just another creation, who lives higher in the food chain and basks in a lifestyle where nothing is acceptable unless it is haute.  And while so, he accepts questions from readers asking about his opinion on advice from the lowest forms of watches to haute horlogerie.  But something new and quite very interesting was his column a couple of weeks ago.  It was a watch challenge from a watch manufacturer himself.  This is quite the first time that a watch manufacturer has communicated with the Watch Snob aside from the askmen readers.

That company was Kobold, who is obviously founded by Michael Kobold.  What was the challenge?  well basically Mr. Kobold wrote a letter to the Watch Snob telling him some surprising information about his company and his watches and gladly sending the snob an actual Kobold watch for some scrutiny and criticsm. That is one bold step I would say but goes to show how confident Mr. Kobold really is with his creations.

Well, I know someone would hint me at the back and say that this could be one whole marketing stunt, but none the less, the letter that Mr. Kobold sent made me change the whole impression of what Kobold watches really are.  You can check out his letter here.

After reading the lengthy letter, I have to say only a few of these types of companies really do what they are passionate about.  I mean, I am passionately sure that in majority of watch manufacturers in the market right now have hugely big profit margin with insanely prices that even an expert cost accountant could not justify, to where only a high profile businessman could just give you a smirk.  Is there really a watch out there where we could physically get our money's worth?

So for my 24th WWR, it's non other than the Kobold Soarway GMT watch.  Aside from the striking good looks that pointed out to me while I was looking at their line up, the totally of how Kobold manufactures their cases in USA with great quality and powered by a bulletproof swiss ETA movement and at a price that normally would come out a few times over is a great deal itself.

More on the watch, I like the sunray textured blu dial with an unmarked bezel with only a lume pip at 12'o clock for a classy function for marking elapsed time.  And paired with a brown leather strap is somewhat awkwardly matched but I think came out really great.  and a GMT hand for those who want to know the home time the old fashioned way.  And of course, change the strap for rubber or nylon and you can dive it in with its 500m WR rating.  I have also attached some pictures of another version of the Soarway GMT with a grey bezel matched with a grey zulu strap, strikingly calm and military cool I have to say.  Both watches are a sure winner.

Technical specs:
Case Diameter of about 46mm w/o crown, stainless steel
24 mm lug width
500m WR
Movement ETA 2893-A2, Automatic, Hacking, Date, GMT, 40hr PR, INCABLOC Shock Resistant System
Antimagnetic 80,000 a/m


Priced at $4,550, I say value is claimed to your it should be.

I'm still looking forward for the results of the challenge but I'm confident that even though the Watch Snob might have something bad to say about it, well he ain't a snob just for nothing, kobold watches will be at the higher end of our scores for the average men that compose most of the watch wearing market everywhere.

And, I would like to end this quote from Oscar Wilde, that would gladly fit our WWR topic for today.

"Nowadays, people know the price of everything and the value of nothing"

WWR #21: Orient Star GMT Star Seeker DJ00001B

Yes yes another Orient, the most recommended brand since I ever started WWR.  But how can I resist when they churn out one of the most affordable watches around in various styles and designs.  And now, has offered I would say the most complications at price it is being offered.  I challenge anyone to come up to me and tell me another timepiece that has a GMT function, power reserve, and date complication that can beat its price of the Orient Star GMT Star Seeker under reference number DJ00001B.  And I have seen that around $450 price range.

 

Specs of the beautiful watch.
Power Reserve: 40-Hour Power Reserve Indicator
Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflection coating
Movement: Mechanical Movement : ORIENT caliber 40P51 Made in Japan [22 jewels | 21600/hour vibrations], hacking and handwinding
Clasp: Fold-over with Double Push Button
Water Resistance: 100m
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Case Diameter: 41.50mm
Case Thickness: 13.75mm
Lug size: 22mm 
Dial Color: Black, also available with white
Calendar: Quick-set Date
Band Material: Solid Stainless Steel

Pics of the gorgeous watch.  

The crown at 2 o'clock is a screw down and adjusts the GMT hand.  The crown at the 4 o'clock is a non screw-down and adjusts the time as well as date and is the crown for winding.

pic of the simple but slightly decorated movement.

And normally, as what sometimes adds excitement to collectors of Japanes watches is that similar to Seiko, Orient too releases different kinds of version of  their watches.  And for this one, we have the WZ0011 with slight changes to the hands and crystal and some other markings in the dial.  Here is a pic below.  Well normally,  rarer versions are more exclusive and retail a higher price later on, well might be a steeper price compared to the common version.  If you were to ask me, I like the DJ00001 version better, the spacing on the hands and not really a fan on cyclops lenses on the date aperture. And

here is the other or first version.

  

Pics courtesy all over the net.  Thank you!

WWR #13: Nomos Tangomat GMT

From a little town in Glashutte, comes my WWR no. 12.  which is the Nomos Glashutte Tangomat GMT.  Now one of the things that prompted me to choose this brand is that now in our world of complexities and somewhat chaos, a site of simplicity for me is beauty.  And that characteristic is visibly clear in all Nomos watches.  I chose the Tangomat GMT is that i breaks a way from the normal three handed watch and comes away with the GMT function through a window calendar and its one of the bigger models that Nomos has which is at 40mm.  The white dial face is also a sure damn killer.  You can pair it with Jeans, or casual long sleeve shirts and jackets, or a tie, fits everywhere. Those blue hands complement the dial so much adding to it the small seconds that really makes everything fit and clear. 



The backdrop of this model though is since the GMT function is done through similar to a calendar day ring, the date function is sacrificed.  Well whatever works for you, there is a Tangomat Datum that has no GMT function but a large date display on the dial.   



This clean minimalist watch is not screaming for attention but gains a lot of respect to where it is due.  Just look at the back.  Seldom do you see in-house manufactured watches these days.