It was about 3 years ago, just the usual day scrolling around the web for more information about a new found passion: watches of course. And since I only had one Seiko back then, I was completely blown away by how many collectors of Seiko there are and the different styles and lines that Seiko has that people collect. And it was in one image I forgot what forum it was that the owner showed a wrist shot of specific Seiko Diver to which I have never seen before. Well from the watch stores at least. It was the first time I saw it. The image had some title on the bottom, its reference number and possibly the date of the watch, It s 6309-7040 and year 1976 respectively. Since that day on, that that specific reference number has somewhat implanted in my WIS brain and has never left since.
What is it about the 6309? For one, I think it has a lot to do with the cushioned case. Well the 6105 also had a cushioned case but IMO it was too wide for my taste as it pairs its 19mm lugs. The 6309's are just perfect and just right. It's like that perfect curve of a woman on the ratio of the chest to waist to hip, like those on Jessica Alba or Olivia Wilde, and not the Lorno type that you see from the Kardashians (I can't believe I just made reference to a woman's body to watch, what is happening to me!). Well you know what I mean.
The crown on the 6309 neatly tucks in the cushioned case without needing extra metal for crown guards, the cushion does the cushioning itself. And since it is a tube type crown, unlike the later versions of the Seiko Divers wear it kinda sits on the stem and quite hard to screw in if you done get the grooves aligned right. On the 6309, its such a breeze. The tube under the crown guides your fingers all the way to those nice curvy hips I mean case.
I also like the look better with round/circular indices (submariner influence on me maybe). But they really strike artful balance to a circular dial rather than rectangular indices. And the special 12, 9 and 6 o'clock markers are right on the spot, especially the sword shaped marker on the 12 o'clock, ugh I could stare on them forever.
The 6309/6306 (hacking version type) was also the first Seiko Diver model to have this set of arrow type hands, to which is used in a lot of Seiko Divers and Sports models up to this day.
And, some say the 6309 movement is also a bullet, well can't attest to this for now but I think all Seiko movements are :)
Now going back to my story. So it really didn't come to my plan to get one. I mean, during that moment, it never crossed my mind to get a vintage watch. But as soon as had some sources for one, I tried to check it out.
I met up with the seller to check the 6309 he was selling. The initial information he told me that he had a good condition 6309 that was ready to wear and did not need any refurbish or repair. Upon seeing the watch, I was like "whoah finally a 6309 in my hands" you know kinda star struck. But it kinda quickly went away when I noticed that the dial was too new for a 20 plus year old watch. Yes it was aftermarket. and So was the bezel insert and the hands. The rubber strap was also aftermarket, and you guessed it, so was the spring bar, was thin as hell. It was then I realized that I was kind of a purist.
I also requested the seller to open up the case-back to check if it really had an authentic movement. It did though, but it did not look good. The rotor had brown colored stains on it, may be some dirty pitt but could not be rust I thought.
Here is a quick wrist shot (blurry shot sorry) of the watch (with all the aftermarket parts) when I got it.
So, with all this at hand, I decided to get the watch since the movement was original, the case and caseback was still in good condition, a little WABI but as expected on a vintage watcg. Then I set-out to restore it with orignal parts as possible or where feasible.
For the dial, I requested the seller if he could acquire some old original 6309 dials so I could switch it with the aftermaket. So does with the Bezel insert. I wouldn't care if there were some WABI in it just as long as it was original or a correct aftermarket. And luckily just after a few days, he contacted me and got me a original non-suwa dial with some patina and dirt on the lume and a correct aftermarket bezel insert with minor WABI all over.
Here is the comparison of the original dial and the aftermarket.
Aftermarket Dial - Seiko Logo. Observe the print on the hour indices and Seiko logo is kinda blotchy and thick.
Original Dial with some patina, WABI - Seiko Logo. Observe how the prints on the hour indices and the Seiko Logo is finely printed.
Aftermarket dial with 150m water resist print. The 150m print is still blotchy but the Water Resist print is rather fine in my opinion.
Then the 150m water resist print on the original dial. The Water Resist print has faded to pale yellow but the 150m is clearly in fine print. This is what they call a Non-Suwa dial as clearly there is no Suwa Logo right below the WATER 150M RESIST print.
At the bottom of the dial, bears some writing and references to where it was made.
This is the aftermarket dial and it's writing below. Print still blotchy and not quite clear. the "9" on the 6309 print is even incomplete.
And here is the print on the original dial. Also finely printed and clear after all this years under the sun. From the reference on"6309 Collector's Buying Guide" on watchuseek forum, this dial was made in Singapore.
And the comparison for the bezel insert.
Aftermarket wrong bezel insert. Lume pip sits on top of the insert and the capped "1" on the 10 marker.
And the correct bezel insert. Lume pip is embedded on the insert and the correct "1" font on the 10. The dots that make up the minute markers also are bigger in size.
Extensive references where from this link, you'll find this very useful as it did to mine.
http://forums.watchuseek.com/f281/how-buy-seiko-6309-diver-collectors-buying-guide-140799.html Here is the watch head now with orginal dial with patina. The hands are still aftermarket, as original ones in good clean condition are rare to find as with the bezel but as long as it's the correct one.
Then I sent it out to Seiko Service Center for a full movement overhaul and for it to be regulated. Prior sending it for repair, it was running +2 mins per day and sometimes would stop running even though I was wearing it.
Initial check-up from the watch technician indicated that the balance wheel and plate need to be replaced. So with the gaskets.
I waited for almost a month before the watch finished it's service. I then requested the watch technician to open up the case back so I could take a cell phone quick shot of the movement.
Here is the pic of the movement, all cleaned up and ready to run.
Here the pics of the old plate. Notice the grime on the rotor ball rollers. Figured this caused the inefficient winding.
And the old balance wheel. Can't really say what's wrong with it but might be the performance that needed it to be changed.
It now runs +15-20 secs per day. Not a chronometer spec but I believe within tolerance to the specs of this movement. I plan to get it back to Seiko to be regulated again as I do believe this can still be improved.
I then strapped it up with some Seiko fat spring bars and a Maratac Zulu Strap, and now here it is, ready for more years of ticking.
Some photo sessions with an old book by Hemingway...
And some pictures with its successors...a 7002-700A Pepsi Diver, and the SKX007. If you look at it closely, the aftermarket second hand on the 6309 has a longer tip after the circular lume marker compared to the original second hand on the 7002. As for the bezel insert, the aftermarket one on the 6309 doesn't create a shadow at the edges of the lume pip, while the original inserts on the 7002 and SKX have deeper lume pips which create an inner shadow.
The Seiko 6309-7040, trusted and loved by so many. A basic divers watch that has truly become an icon in Japanese Horology, capturing the wrists of many WIS from any continent in the world. 27 years has passed since mine got off the production floor, I did not cause its scars, I did not wear its gears, but I believe I have given life back to this watch and gave it all needed attention and care that I hope it could live again for another 27 years...or more.
