WWR 25: Seiko SBPG001 Spirit Digital Watch

I was watching 'Octupussy' a couple of nights ago and was amazed by how Bond films were before.  How movie was shot, the camera angles, the lines, the pace of the movie, the fashion, style, and of course, Bond's gadgets.  Goes to show what was the "it" thing back in '83 and how James Bond movies are a reflective on what the world was by the time it was made.

And since this is WWR, in a WIS world, the popular Seiko in the film was the Seiko S605831 and its popular "Cleavage" shot by ladyman Mr. Moore who played Bond.  All throughout the film, Bond wore this watch, from action sequences to formal evening events with the villains.  And got me wondering that can a digital watch be ever worn in a formal attire? Under the cuffs perhaps?  Well, I dont think G shocks will ever gonna be fitting so it must have a stainless steel construction same as the iconic Seiko that Moore wore, sans the TV screen of course, too gadgety for our times today.

So I went out to look for an available Stainless Steel digital watch in the market right now that is not a cheap ultra crazy colorful fashion throw away watch but one that is built that can be worn by a special agent, and still provide the class, pedigree and complete convenience of a digital watch.  Well obviously enough, I found no other watch that fits the bill.

My 25th WWR is the Seiko SBPG001 Spirit Digital Watch.  This 40mm squareish cased digi is housed in a stainless steel case and strapped in a stainless steel bracelet that is practically influenced by the advent of digital quartz watches in the 80s.  This watch is from the Spirit line from Seiko which I believe are JDMs as I don't see them often in other markets and is the outcome of the Power Design projects by Seiko.

Details  as follows

• Case/bracelet: SS
• Movement: S760 Solar
• Crystal: Hardlex
• Lumi Brite: Panelight( EL back Light)
• Accuracy: +/-20 sec per month
• Water proof: 10ATM water resistance
• Automatic time setting: This watch can receive official standard Atomic Clock frequencies of Japan, Germany, England and the United States
• Width: 40 mm (without the crown)
• Thickness: 10 mm
• Full Auto Calender
• World time 32 Cities

This is tagged at $322.  

This technological classic beauty brings hues from the age of the 80's but the innovative prowess of the new millennium and it'll fit comfortably under your sleeve to aid you on your journey to Octopussy's Lair at wall street and grab your slice of success.

WWR# 24: Kobold Soarway GMT

I really find the Watch Snob column over at askmen.com very entertaining and insightful at the same time as we see a character, no one knows if he's real or  just another creation, who lives higher in the food chain and basks in a lifestyle where nothing is acceptable unless it is haute.  And while so, he accepts questions from readers asking about his opinion on advice from the lowest forms of watches to haute horlogerie.  But something new and quite very interesting was his column a couple of weeks ago.  It was a watch challenge from a watch manufacturer himself.  This is quite the first time that a watch manufacturer has communicated with the Watch Snob aside from the askmen readers.

That company was Kobold, who is obviously founded by Michael Kobold.  What was the challenge?  well basically Mr. Kobold wrote a letter to the Watch Snob telling him some surprising information about his company and his watches and gladly sending the snob an actual Kobold watch for some scrutiny and criticsm. That is one bold step I would say but goes to show how confident Mr. Kobold really is with his creations.

Well, I know someone would hint me at the back and say that this could be one whole marketing stunt, but none the less, the letter that Mr. Kobold sent made me change the whole impression of what Kobold watches really are.  You can check out his letter here.

After reading the lengthy letter, I have to say only a few of these types of companies really do what they are passionate about.  I mean, I am passionately sure that in majority of watch manufacturers in the market right now have hugely big profit margin with insanely prices that even an expert cost accountant could not justify, to where only a high profile businessman could just give you a smirk.  Is there really a watch out there where we could physically get our money's worth?

So for my 24th WWR, it's non other than the Kobold Soarway GMT watch.  Aside from the striking good looks that pointed out to me while I was looking at their line up, the totally of how Kobold manufactures their cases in USA with great quality and powered by a bulletproof swiss ETA movement and at a price that normally would come out a few times over is a great deal itself.

More on the watch, I like the sunray textured blu dial with an unmarked bezel with only a lume pip at 12'o clock for a classy function for marking elapsed time.  And paired with a brown leather strap is somewhat awkwardly matched but I think came out really great.  and a GMT hand for those who want to know the home time the old fashioned way.  And of course, change the strap for rubber or nylon and you can dive it in with its 500m WR rating.  I have also attached some pictures of another version of the Soarway GMT with a grey bezel matched with a grey zulu strap, strikingly calm and military cool I have to say.  Both watches are a sure winner.

Technical specs:
Case Diameter of about 46mm w/o crown, stainless steel
24 mm lug width
500m WR
Movement ETA 2893-A2, Automatic, Hacking, Date, GMT, 40hr PR, INCABLOC Shock Resistant System
Antimagnetic 80,000 a/m


Priced at $4,550, I say value is claimed to your it should be.

I'm still looking forward for the results of the challenge but I'm confident that even though the Watch Snob might have something bad to say about it, well he ain't a snob just for nothing, kobold watches will be at the higher end of our scores for the average men that compose most of the watch wearing market everywhere.

And, I would like to end this quote from Oscar Wilde, that would gladly fit our WWR topic for today.

"Nowadays, people know the price of everything and the value of nothing"

WWR #23: Citizen Eco-drive Watch BV1060-07E

Many watch freaks don't like quartz powered watches, they have no life, soul, nothing romantic about the ticking seconds hand and totally boring. But I'm not doing thus do just for crazy collectors like me, but also lots of watch consumers out there who seriously need a watch and not rely everything on the digits on the iphone. Every reasonable ans respectable man must ans I say must have a watch strapped to his wrist. For this week, I am recommending a watch that you can literally and practically say the only watch you will ever need putting aside a collectors or fashionable stance. I'm talking about this simple yet classically designed Eco-drive from Citizen. Look at it, I swear it looks or would want to have an automatic mechanical movement inside it and the small second hand sweeping through with about 6 ticks per second, but no no no. As long as the sun shines,this baby will give you the time as accurate as you will ever need it to be. A true maintenance free watch that you just set it and forget it. Well adjust the date every two months actually and everything is done. From Citizen, this will cost you $199 and that's it, you have a dependable and beautiful watch that will fit in every occasion or attire you desire. 43mm case size with leather strap, date function and classic sub-dial second hand at 6, you can never go wrong.

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WWR #22: Steinhart Ocean Vintage Military

What do you think about homages? Are they fakes? Just a copy? Well these questions are the most asked and discussed by watch collectors and enthusiasts everywhere. True nothing can beat the real deal, but sometimes it may not be as practical as you think. Especially true for vintage watches. And so my weekly watch recommendation for this week is the best homage for the most coveted and holiest of all military dive watch grails.

The watch for this week is from the German watch company Steinhart with their Ocean Vintage Military divers watch.






It is cased on a 42mm stainless steel case with a domed sapphire crystal and powered by an ETA 2824-2 automatic movement.  Aside from milsub design homage, it also has that dial with patina look on the markers and that includes the hands.  And even though these have that patina color in them, they surely glow in the dark considering that these are Superluminova.  It is also water resistant to 300 meters and is equipped with a solid stainless steel bracelet.  Replace this with a black nato strap and you have yourself the complete homage of the rare and cool Rolex MilSub.

Here are the pics of this vintage inspired beauty.

The Rolex that influenced this Steiny was the Military Submariner or named to many as the MilSub.  This watch was issued to the British Military in the 70s and only about 1200 of them was made this way.  A normal person would mistake this with a normal Rolex Submariner on a nato strap but there are so many differences in this model that makes this more unique and in demand.

 Interested, more info on the link below:

http://rolex.watchprosite.com/show-nblog.post/ti-503131/

  

The Steinhart Ocean Vintage Military Dive watch carries a price tag of around $580 to $600.  The Rolex on the other hand you can probably get about 100 to 200 times that price if it ever comes up in the bay or an auction. The price is only not the biggest plus, as the problems come with all vintage time pieces is the repair and service.  The parts are mostly scarce, and you would need to spend more to have it in tip-top condition.  The Steinhart uses an ETA movement, and is basically used in hundred thousands of watches and has a vast supply of replacement parts.  Lots of people love a patina/vintage look on their watches, but that usually is a sign that your watch is used up so those luminous markers no matter what they are made won't glow anymore, well except for this Steiny.  And lastly, the 42mm case on the Steiny is up to the style of big watches nowadays, the Milsubs are at the minimum level of case diameter.  

To conclude, nothing beats the Rolex MilSub when it comes to heritage and the respect it deserves as the real tool watch that made Rolex a good pedigree for watches.  But in the new generation today, not so many of us have lots of dough to put down on a 40 year old watch, but thanks to Steiny, we can enjoy the classic design of the historic milsub, and the reliability of a new working movement that we can use day till night, and still have surplus for dropping some dought another new watch for a growing collection.

We must thank these homages as they let our generation appreciate the history and value of the old and experience it with our generation's version....in some way.

WWR #21: Orient Star GMT Star Seeker DJ00001B

Yes yes another Orient, the most recommended brand since I ever started WWR.  But how can I resist when they churn out one of the most affordable watches around in various styles and designs.  And now, has offered I would say the most complications at price it is being offered.  I challenge anyone to come up to me and tell me another timepiece that has a GMT function, power reserve, and date complication that can beat its price of the Orient Star GMT Star Seeker under reference number DJ00001B.  And I have seen that around $450 price range.

 

Specs of the beautiful watch.
Power Reserve: 40-Hour Power Reserve Indicator
Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflection coating
Movement: Mechanical Movement : ORIENT caliber 40P51 Made in Japan [22 jewels | 21600/hour vibrations], hacking and handwinding
Clasp: Fold-over with Double Push Button
Water Resistance: 100m
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Case Diameter: 41.50mm
Case Thickness: 13.75mm
Lug size: 22mm 
Dial Color: Black, also available with white
Calendar: Quick-set Date
Band Material: Solid Stainless Steel

Pics of the gorgeous watch.  

The crown at 2 o'clock is a screw down and adjusts the GMT hand.  The crown at the 4 o'clock is a non screw-down and adjusts the time as well as date and is the crown for winding.

pic of the simple but slightly decorated movement.

And normally, as what sometimes adds excitement to collectors of Japanes watches is that similar to Seiko, Orient too releases different kinds of version of  their watches.  And for this one, we have the WZ0011 with slight changes to the hands and crystal and some other markings in the dial.  Here is a pic below.  Well normally,  rarer versions are more exclusive and retail a higher price later on, well might be a steeper price compared to the common version.  If you were to ask me, I like the DJ00001 version better, the spacing on the hands and not really a fan on cyclops lenses on the date aperture. And

here is the other or first version.

  

Pics courtesy all over the net.  Thank you!

WWR#20 Doxa Sub 300T Sharkhunter Vintage Dive Watch

So many ask why people collect vintage watches.  The terms old, used, outdated, faded etc etc are not the preferable adjectives to put prior an item in a sentence in an ad.  But yet they don't seem to apply to watches and everything horology.  So what is it? Some say its the history and heritage of the brand and the watch.  Definitely true, and as I way I would put it, imagine a piece, that goes way back when technology of the quartz was still a dream, and a ticking movement of gears and springs is all it took to help man keep track of time.  Especially for divers, time was crucial.  And now imagine that in your wrist, that very same batch of watches, telling you that its time for your important appointment.

And with the love of vintage watches, my 20th WWR is the DOXA SHARKHUNTER 300T.  Now what makes this particular watch special?  For one, its a vintage dive watch that dates from the 1967.  Where were you at that time?  Well I was probably a sperm swimming around and listening to Beatles and Hendrix tunes that ran across the radio waves.  This particular model was used from one of the famous diving teams way back, who was lead by their master the late Capt. Jacques Yves Cousteau.  Mr, Cousteau and his team introduced SCUBA diving to which they called it 'AQUALUNG', to which were the watch dial bears that logo.  Third, just take a look at this dive watch, its iconic design seem to never fade. The 42mm cushion case fits very well in today's sizes and won't be called a grandpa's watch.  Look at that bezel, doesn't copy the usual submariner homage, but its a dual purpose bezel that's engraved on the bezel itself and not an insert.  It shows an Non Decompression Dive Table too which is I believe Capt. Cousteau wanted in the partnership of designing the watch with Doxa. 


Here is a pic of that watch on a sports strap.

 

Case back with the Doxa Sailing Ship logo

The Sharkhunter 300T with its original bracelet and other newer Doxa models including the popular Orange faced Professional.

The 17-Jewel ETA 2852 movement that is automatic and hand winding capable.

A U.S. Divers Co. ad featuring DOXA, Capt. J.Y. Cousteau and Aqua Lung

And a picture of Capt. Cousteau wearing the watch himself.

This watch would be quite hard to find now, some would take them years to hunt one down that is in good condition and at reasonable price.  If it ever finds your way, get it, before you regret it for passing one by.

WWR #19 Citizen Promaster Titanium Divers Watch NY0054

 Looking for your first titanium watch? Well here's the most affordable diver's watch that is cased in Ti.

Ironically, I have never considered about the dive watches by Citizen. They just did'nt fit bill on the perspective of my taste.  But for this specific model, did.  It sung to me.  It looked mean but not overboard unlike the Seiko monster, its case, dial and hands are roundly soft like designed after water dynamics.  This design I won't get bored after a few years.

here are some specs at $190-200 price range.  Talk about bang fir your buck!

Specs:

Cal. No: 8203, automatic, handwinding, hacking
Black dial with super luminous hand and dot markers
Full titanium back and case
Screw back case
Black rubber strap
Sweeping second hand with luminous features
Stylish traditional uni-directional rotating sporty diver bezel with 60mins scale
Screw-down Locking Crown at 8 o'clock position

Water Resistant 200m (20 bar)

N.D. Limits table(No Decompression limits table) imprinted on the wrist band, this table indicated the permitted time limit without decompression according to the depth.

Approximate measurements
Bezel diameter: 40mm, Case diameter:44mm including crown
Case thickness: 10mm

Here are some explosive pics of this not so common watch...

 

 

A blue variant of the watch which I have to say brings good old blues to you...