WWR #22: Steinhart Ocean Vintage Military

What do you think about homages? Are they fakes? Just a copy? Well these questions are the most asked and discussed by watch collectors and enthusiasts everywhere. True nothing can beat the real deal, but sometimes it may not be as practical as you think. Especially true for vintage watches. And so my weekly watch recommendation for this week is the best homage for the most coveted and holiest of all military dive watch grails.

The watch for this week is from the German watch company Steinhart with their Ocean Vintage Military divers watch.






It is cased on a 42mm stainless steel case with a domed sapphire crystal and powered by an ETA 2824-2 automatic movement.  Aside from milsub design homage, it also has that dial with patina look on the markers and that includes the hands.  And even though these have that patina color in them, they surely glow in the dark considering that these are Superluminova.  It is also water resistant to 300 meters and is equipped with a solid stainless steel bracelet.  Replace this with a black nato strap and you have yourself the complete homage of the rare and cool Rolex MilSub.

Here are the pics of this vintage inspired beauty.

The Rolex that influenced this Steiny was the Military Submariner or named to many as the MilSub.  This watch was issued to the British Military in the 70s and only about 1200 of them was made this way.  A normal person would mistake this with a normal Rolex Submariner on a nato strap but there are so many differences in this model that makes this more unique and in demand.

 Interested, more info on the link below:

http://rolex.watchprosite.com/show-nblog.post/ti-503131/

  

The Steinhart Ocean Vintage Military Dive watch carries a price tag of around $580 to $600.  The Rolex on the other hand you can probably get about 100 to 200 times that price if it ever comes up in the bay or an auction. The price is only not the biggest plus, as the problems come with all vintage time pieces is the repair and service.  The parts are mostly scarce, and you would need to spend more to have it in tip-top condition.  The Steinhart uses an ETA movement, and is basically used in hundred thousands of watches and has a vast supply of replacement parts.  Lots of people love a patina/vintage look on their watches, but that usually is a sign that your watch is used up so those luminous markers no matter what they are made won't glow anymore, well except for this Steiny.  And lastly, the 42mm case on the Steiny is up to the style of big watches nowadays, the Milsubs are at the minimum level of case diameter.  

To conclude, nothing beats the Rolex MilSub when it comes to heritage and the respect it deserves as the real tool watch that made Rolex a good pedigree for watches.  But in the new generation today, not so many of us have lots of dough to put down on a 40 year old watch, but thanks to Steiny, we can enjoy the classic design of the historic milsub, and the reliability of a new working movement that we can use day till night, and still have surplus for dropping some dought another new watch for a growing collection.

We must thank these homages as they let our generation appreciate the history and value of the old and experience it with our generation's version....in some way.

WWR #21: Orient Star GMT Star Seeker DJ00001B

Yes yes another Orient, the most recommended brand since I ever started WWR.  But how can I resist when they churn out one of the most affordable watches around in various styles and designs.  And now, has offered I would say the most complications at price it is being offered.  I challenge anyone to come up to me and tell me another timepiece that has a GMT function, power reserve, and date complication that can beat its price of the Orient Star GMT Star Seeker under reference number DJ00001B.  And I have seen that around $450 price range.

 

Specs of the beautiful watch.
Power Reserve: 40-Hour Power Reserve Indicator
Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflection coating
Movement: Mechanical Movement : ORIENT caliber 40P51 Made in Japan [22 jewels | 21600/hour vibrations], hacking and handwinding
Clasp: Fold-over with Double Push Button
Water Resistance: 100m
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Case Diameter: 41.50mm
Case Thickness: 13.75mm
Lug size: 22mm 
Dial Color: Black, also available with white
Calendar: Quick-set Date
Band Material: Solid Stainless Steel

Pics of the gorgeous watch.  

The crown at 2 o'clock is a screw down and adjusts the GMT hand.  The crown at the 4 o'clock is a non screw-down and adjusts the time as well as date and is the crown for winding.

pic of the simple but slightly decorated movement.

And normally, as what sometimes adds excitement to collectors of Japanes watches is that similar to Seiko, Orient too releases different kinds of version of  their watches.  And for this one, we have the WZ0011 with slight changes to the hands and crystal and some other markings in the dial.  Here is a pic below.  Well normally,  rarer versions are more exclusive and retail a higher price later on, well might be a steeper price compared to the common version.  If you were to ask me, I like the DJ00001 version better, the spacing on the hands and not really a fan on cyclops lenses on the date aperture. And

here is the other or first version.

  

Pics courtesy all over the net.  Thank you!

WWR#20 Doxa Sub 300T Sharkhunter Vintage Dive Watch

So many ask why people collect vintage watches.  The terms old, used, outdated, faded etc etc are not the preferable adjectives to put prior an item in a sentence in an ad.  But yet they don't seem to apply to watches and everything horology.  So what is it? Some say its the history and heritage of the brand and the watch.  Definitely true, and as I way I would put it, imagine a piece, that goes way back when technology of the quartz was still a dream, and a ticking movement of gears and springs is all it took to help man keep track of time.  Especially for divers, time was crucial.  And now imagine that in your wrist, that very same batch of watches, telling you that its time for your important appointment.

And with the love of vintage watches, my 20th WWR is the DOXA SHARKHUNTER 300T.  Now what makes this particular watch special?  For one, its a vintage dive watch that dates from the 1967.  Where were you at that time?  Well I was probably a sperm swimming around and listening to Beatles and Hendrix tunes that ran across the radio waves.  This particular model was used from one of the famous diving teams way back, who was lead by their master the late Capt. Jacques Yves Cousteau.  Mr, Cousteau and his team introduced SCUBA diving to which they called it 'AQUALUNG', to which were the watch dial bears that logo.  Third, just take a look at this dive watch, its iconic design seem to never fade. The 42mm cushion case fits very well in today's sizes and won't be called a grandpa's watch.  Look at that bezel, doesn't copy the usual submariner homage, but its a dual purpose bezel that's engraved on the bezel itself and not an insert.  It shows an Non Decompression Dive Table too which is I believe Capt. Cousteau wanted in the partnership of designing the watch with Doxa. 


Here is a pic of that watch on a sports strap.

 

Case back with the Doxa Sailing Ship logo

The Sharkhunter 300T with its original bracelet and other newer Doxa models including the popular Orange faced Professional.

The 17-Jewel ETA 2852 movement that is automatic and hand winding capable.

A U.S. Divers Co. ad featuring DOXA, Capt. J.Y. Cousteau and Aqua Lung

And a picture of Capt. Cousteau wearing the watch himself.

This watch would be quite hard to find now, some would take them years to hunt one down that is in good condition and at reasonable price.  If it ever finds your way, get it, before you regret it for passing one by.

WWR #19 Citizen Promaster Titanium Divers Watch NY0054

 Looking for your first titanium watch? Well here's the most affordable diver's watch that is cased in Ti.

Ironically, I have never considered about the dive watches by Citizen. They just did'nt fit bill on the perspective of my taste.  But for this specific model, did.  It sung to me.  It looked mean but not overboard unlike the Seiko monster, its case, dial and hands are roundly soft like designed after water dynamics.  This design I won't get bored after a few years.

here are some specs at $190-200 price range.  Talk about bang fir your buck!

Specs:

Cal. No: 8203, automatic, handwinding, hacking
Black dial with super luminous hand and dot markers
Full titanium back and case
Screw back case
Black rubber strap
Sweeping second hand with luminous features
Stylish traditional uni-directional rotating sporty diver bezel with 60mins scale
Screw-down Locking Crown at 8 o'clock position

Water Resistant 200m (20 bar)

N.D. Limits table(No Decompression limits table) imprinted on the wrist band, this table indicated the permitted time limit without decompression according to the depth.

Approximate measurements
Bezel diameter: 40mm, Case diameter:44mm including crown
Case thickness: 10mm

Here are some explosive pics of this not so common watch...

 

 

A blue variant of the watch which I have to say brings good old blues to you...

WWR# 18: Orient Classic Chronograph TT0V004W

Orient, one of the least popular watch brands globally and one of the brands that I only knew of when I started collecting is also one of the brands that surprises me more often and has somewhat read my mind on what kind of watches I like and would love to see available in the market.  And the best part of all, majority of their watches are pretty affordable.

My Weekly Watch Recom for this week is a new model from their Classic Quartz Line.  It seems that Orient is churning out lots of Quartz models recently which equals more or less the number of new mechanicals they introduce.  Well this watch truly has some classic lines.  It has hints and cues chronographs decades ago, so its not hard to like.  I also like how the sub dials are not contemporary to chronograph watches today.  For example, the continuous seconds hand is at the 9 o'clock position, the 6 o'clock area seems to have a mini clock dial which I assume tells the minute and second chronograph counter, and at the 12 o'clock is for the 1/10th of a second counter.  If I'm wrong, please do comment and correct me.

I've handle this piece in person and it's very light, very practical for an everyday beater at the office or trips to the coffee shop or having some drinks with friends later.  The case has an all polished finish.  Leather strap is mediocre but you can always change it with croc design to give it a more classier look.

Pictures below are the 3 different tones of dial, case, hands and straps that I like the most.  Looking for a classy daily beater? You can get this for less than $150 at your retail stores and get an upgrade for your wrist that's more that what you paid for.

Here are some more details from Orient's website.

Analogue Quartz Movement : caliber KFB00
Chronograph in 1/20 second
Chronograph hands (second & 1/20 second), Small second hand
Date indicator

Stainless steel case
Domed crystal glass
Screw caseback
Genuine leather strap
Water resistant to 50m
Diameter 42.60mm
Thickness 10.79mm

 

WWR# 17: Timex Gents Elegant Dress Watch T2M528

It's quite or rather a big direction right now that oversize watches, 40mm and above are the norm.  Even though it defies the satorial rules of the tastefully inclined, you can see them being brought about in formal wear, denying to be covered on the sleeves.

And so the the industry answered with a boost in dress watches that went out who could make the thinnest watch of course with a mechanical movement.  Piaget came out with the Altiplano, JLC with Master Ultra Thin, and then Vacheron Constatin Patrimony Grande Taille, and many others followed suit.  But of course, these would all cost more than your car probably, so for a wallet friendly thin watch, I recommend the Timex Gents Elegant Dress Watch T2M528. 







This quartz watch is 42mm and 8mm thick and weighs only 300 grams.  So basically from the front, it is in town with its size, but will definitely fit under those cuffs. Best of both words isn't it?  And you can have it at of course very affordable prize.  Lots of em available around.  Basically you got all of this, incredible value for money, will take on a lickin and keeps on tickin, and will look good on that tailored suit of yours.

WWR 16#: Seiko SBBN011 Darth Tuna Professional Divers Watch

In the world of dive watches, there are only a few brands who really have a real rich history with the art and science of diving.  In my best of knowledge and opinion, I'm not a diver in any level, there are three types of dive watches in the market.  There are desk divers, ISO rated divers, and professional dive watches.  Well now of course these watches are really just accessories, dive computers now do the real guide for the divers, but way back then, the reliability and functionality of dive watches under the vigorous environment under water meant life and death for the diver.   

Seiko is one of the brands who offers those three types of watches (including a dive computer). And during 1965, they came up with a complete redesign from their usual divers watches and came up with the Tuna.  Well its called that by its fans because it just resembles a tuna can.  Flashforward to 2010, they now came up with a blacked out version of this Tuna and now with an ever reliable Seiko quartz movement.  This is my WWR # 16, the Seiko SBBN011 Darth Tuna.

Specs of this awesome and massive divers watch.

Movement 7C46 Quartz from Japan
Sapphire Crystal
Unidirectional Bezel
Titanium Case, Ceramic Guard
48mm Case Diameter
15mm Case Thickness
1000m Water Resistance

What really struck me about this watch is how it wears on your wrist.  Before, looking at pictures of all Tunas, I could just not fathom wearing a hockey puck on your wrist.  But when I actually tried this on for size, it seems I could not get it off and the sales lady was expecting me to get it already.  It wasn't too big, well for the contemporary sizes of watches nowadays, I mean you could literally wear it casually and not emit some show-off presence that your wearing the monster of all watches, and my watch will eat yours kinda type.  I believe its size was meant for something.  I also like the originality in design that it helms from the classic Seiko divers watch, those arrowhead hands and hour indices, but are bigger, bolder and badder considering its size and functionality.  Its standard rubber strap is a sturdier vent type of divers strap that has a blacked out buckles and I would say more comfortable that the Seiko Z22 rubber straps that comes with mose Seiko Divers Watches.  Considering this to be 1000m, without a helium escape valve is an extraordinary feat by the case itself.  The design of the tuna is also not for fashion or in any sense like that, its not a bling out substance, as it roars for the rough oceans and the pressure of the deep.  




Here are pics borrowed from all over the net.